A Week On The Wrist: The Panthère de Cartier
Three new Panthère de Cartier watches from left to right: little in two-tone, medium in steel, and medium in rose gold.
Back in January, we saw Cartier re-discharge its notable (and I truly imply that) Panthère de Cartier . This is a watch that was first delivered during the Must de Cartier days when it was advertised to a spectacular 1980s customer base, and it’s been an exemplary each since. At the point when I saw this new form, I perceived the watch promptly and I realized I needed to get one on to my wrist for an audit as fast as possible.
A Little History
Unlike the Tank, the Panthère isn’t exactly a commonly recognized name. First presented in 1983 during the prime of plushness, the Panthère was lauded for its smooth plan, covered fasten, and connected arm band. It immediately turned into an enormous hit among the’s who, people the same, with superstars like Pierce Brosnan and Keith Richards among the prominent wearers (I won’t ever not love the image of Brosnan beneath). During when Studio 54 was the most sweltering dance club around and excitement was everything, it’s nothing unexpected that this watch was a hit.
In request to completely comprehend the effect of such a watch, it is imperative to understand what it was facing at that point. After the passing of Pierre Cartier in 1964, his two youngsters and nephew moved to sell the privately-owned company. Thus, the company was separated into three semi-self-sufficient companies, Cartier New York, Cartier Paris, and Cartier London, with each delivering various items at various occasions. This made a lopsided brand technique and took into consideration every area to do whatever its might feeling like doing. In one specific occasion, Cartier New York began selling a gold-plated steel Tank watch for $150 in 1971. This was inconceivable at that point, and significantly cheapened the picture of the brand according to numerous long-lasting patrons.
Pierce Brosnan wearing the Panthère de Cartier. (Photograph: civility of Revolution)
Keith Richards with the Panthère de Cartier – and Mick Jagger. (Photograph: politeness of Revolution)
You need to recall that, at that point, Cartier was the ultimate extravagance brand, and up until the 1970s it had been delivering excessively selective, cosmically costly, and extremely high-quality objets – think Mystery Clocks, customized shade watches, and fancy cigarette cases. So selling a gold-plated watch was blasphemy, despite the fact that the watch did very well commercially. Notwithstanding damaging the picture, the possibility of a more affordable watch later prompted the Must de Cartier assortment in 1977, after Cartier was purchased by a gathering of financial backers. The assortment was the brainchild of Joseph Kanoui (who accumulated a gathering of financial backers to buy Cartier, Paris), Alain Dominique Perrin, and Robert Hocq. The assortment incorporated an assortment of shapes and was created in gold-plated silver, taking into consideration a more sensible value point. It was a method of re-marking and interesting to a more extensive crowd (similar as Montblanc and TAG Heuer making smartwatches today), and when quartz developments became possibly the most important factor, it was even more accessible.
The medium-sized Panthère de Cartier in hardened steel with trademark screw-down bezel.
So what does this have to do with the Panthère? All things considered, the Panthère was NOT piece of the Must de Cartier assortment, which is the reason it likely was a particularly hit with certain demographic. Also, there weren’t that some new to-showcase plans at that point, making the Panthère significantly more alluring. However, what I believe is generally intriguing about the circumstance of the 1983 dispatch of the Panthère is that despite the fact that it appears to be a basic women’s watch, it was a serious enormous delivery for Cartier during a period of progressively reasonable watches and more likely than not been a legend assortment for a legacy maison attempting to recapture its balance in the worldwide market. It was first dispatched in quite a while, little, medium, and enormous sizes, in two-tone and yellow-gold alternatives (with a steel model presented in 1991). The Panthère vanished at some point in the mid 2000s, leaving an opening in Cartier’s setup – until now.
The New Panthère
The Panthère is a women’s watch that seems to dependent on the first Santos, however Cartier doesn’t communicate about the watch that path by any means. It includes a comparative square case with a bezel got by eight little screws. It has an exemplary level white dial with prolonged Roman numerals and the mystery “Cartier” signature in the “X” at 10 o’clock.
The configuration is strong, controlled, and utilitarian at the same time – and without making a decent attempt. This is the key to its prosperity and why it offers to so many. The watch today comes in little (22mm) and medium (27mm) sizes, in rose gold, yellow gold, steel, and two-tone. There are a couple of different adaptations, incorporating a form with dark lacquered joins, that begin to move into high gems region also. For this audit, I am zeroing in on the medium size in treated steel, which, as far as I might be concerned, seems like the best day by day wear option.
The exemplary white dial has all the little plan highlights you anticipate from Cartier, remembering the concealed mark for the “X” at 10 o’clock.
The case may have all the earmarks of being your normal square case, however it isn’t. While square watches frequently wind up simply speaking to a specialty crowd, the Panthère discovers more general allure because of the complexity and artfulness of the plan. Specifically, the bended edges and that in a flash conspicuous screw-down bezel truly set the watch apart.
The dial is encased in a square steel bezel with adjusted corners, which, as I referenced, is set with eight screws (this is reflected on the caseback). A fascinating aspect concerning the case configuration is the bended carries and crown monitors. Both are liquid in appearance and may feel immaterial, however they truly add to the general plan of the piece. Without them, the watch wouldn’t have a similar feeling of dynamism at all.
The caseback of the Panthère de Cartier shows eight screws, similar to the bezel.
The arm band is the second most significant thing about this watch. At the point when it was first delivered, individuals commended this specific wristband for its flexibility and smooth appearance. In contrast to the Tank’s arm band, with its huge brushed focus joins and modern feel, the Panthère wristband is cleaned with more modest block like connections. They are spread out in a block design and are connected to each other inside at the top and lower part of each connection. Also, the connections are bended, taking into account not so much weight but rather more development, which makes the watch more comfortable on the wrist.
The medium-sized Panthère de Cartier in steel wears very well, thanks in enormous part to the adaptable and lightweight bracelet.
For this watch, Cartier has utilized its standard quartz development. This comes as nothing unexpected to me, nonetheless, as the company probably needed to minimize expenses and to make the assortment as available and commercially suitable as could be expected. Keep in mind, this isn’t a specialty item we’re discussing. So in this example, it doesn’t trouble me the slightest bit that the watch is quartz – haute horlogerie is not what is the issue here, and I appreciate that it’s not imagining otherwise.
On the Wrist
What I love most about the Panthère is that it looks similarly great on either a closed up Junior Leaguer or a design forward Voguette. It has an immortal quality that anybody can pull off and it comes in an assortment of metals and sizes. You can truly make this watch your own, notwithstanding how straightforward it may appear.
My most loved is the medium-sized steel variant, which estimates 27mm on each side. While the rose gold rendition is likewise excellent, the steel is certainly the most adaptable and will probably be Cartier’s most mainstream model. That it retails for $4,600, which is one of the lower value focuses at which you can get a Cartier timepiece.
The medium-sized Panthère de Cartier in steel wears as both easygoing and dressy, contingent upon what you pair it with.
On the wrist, the watch feels extraordinary. It’s that basic. It is lively and refined, rich and simple to wear. I could without much of a stretch see myself wearing this to play tennis (since I am a prep on a basic level and that is how one manages a watch like this) or to go to one of those dark tie functions I don’t get welcomed as well (I’m seeing you, Met Gala). The additional time I went through with the watch the simpler it became to perceive any reason why this was so famous when it initially came out.
Little subtleties like the sapphire cabochon in the crown, the sharp crown monitors and the bends of the case are what make this watch.
As I said before, the wristband is half of the allure of this watch. It looks extraordinary, sure, but at the same time it’s critical in making this watch so natural to wear. On account of how the connections are spread out and associated with each other, the wristband embraces your wrist with no squeezing and can undoubtedly be changed with the screw-set connections close to the catch. The deployant catch is covered, much the same as on the first, and it is not difficult to unclip with one hand. The lone issue I have is that the arm band end-joins interface with the case, instead of to the finishes of the hauls – this can take into consideration some abnormal shade, with the drags standing out a smidgen, yet it’s not the finish of the world.
A close-up glance at the unique steel case and exemplary dial. There’s barely enough detail to keep things interesting.
So what different watches are there that can compete with the Panthère de Cartier in tempered steel? A couple. The most clear being the Cartier Tank Francaise.
The huge Cartier Tank Française in steel.
The Tank Francaise is a comparative watch as in it is a square(ish) steel watch with a wristband from Cartier. And keeping in mind that the tasteful might be very surprising to the prepared eye (brushed completion, heavier arm band, rectangular case, and so on), it’s obviously in a similar family. Notwithstanding, these watches are being offered to individuals for the most part on stylish grounds, and in such manner, there are a lot of cases for somebody authoritatively needing either. On the wrist, the Tank and the Panthère look very surprising, with the last being much more female. It is significant that the medium-sized steel Tank costs $3,750, while the comparable Panthère costs $4,600. So by the day’s end, this one truly comes down to individual style (and $850).
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36mm.
Another watch available that could give the Panthère a run for its cash is the Rolex Oyster Perpetual in 36mm . The Oyster Perpetual is far sportier than the Panthère and costs more, at $5,400 , yet it can in any case effectively fill thae part of a steel regular watch on a wristband, but in an alternate way. This watch likewise brings into play a programmed development and the Rolex name, the two of which can clearly be distinct advantages for certain customers.
The Rolex Lady-Datejust 28mm in steel.
A better comparison may be the new 28mm Lady-Datejust in steel , which was once again introduced for the current year at Baselworld in three new forms. The steel form with a pink dial and Roman numerals may draw nearer to the fragile gentility of the Panthère, however, once more, this is a long ways from Cartier’s specific tasteful. Retailing for $6,300, it’s likewise in a more exorbitant cost bracket.
If these comparisons appear to be somewhat uncommon and it doesn’t exactly feel like anything is an immediate competitor, that is on the grounds that nothing truly is. The steel Panthère has the entirety of that incredible Cartier style that you can’t actually discover elsewhere – and, in case we’re being straightforward, a great many people who need a Cartier observe simply need a Cartier watch. It’s the style, the brand, and the set of experiences they’re purchasing, so likely nothing else will very do.
The Panthère de Cartier is an examination in how to make a watch for a particular market, and how to do it ridiculously well.
One of the principle things to ponder is the way that the Panthère de Cartier in 1983 was a high-extravagance watch in comparison to the remainder of the market around then. Quick forward to now, and a similar careful watch has become nearly standard in a similar industry. Besides, what the Panthère de Cartier does best is appeal to a particular gathering of purchasers. These purchasers aren’t watch geeks and they aren’t concerned very good quality developments. They probably won’t be keen on the greater part of the standard thing presume women’s watches. I think this is the reason I was astonished to the point that I appreciated wearing it to such an extent. Following quite a while of complaining about an absence of mechanical looks for ladies, I ended up back at the source with a 27mm quartz women’s watch and I loved it.
I think the significant takeaway here is that the Panthère de Cartier re-confirms that great plan and wearability are the greater part the fight. This is something that Cartier comprehends and applies to every one of its items. It’s a methodology that unmistakably works. I have consistently been a colossal devotee of Cartier and the Panthère de Cartier further sets that. What’s more, I am certain I am by all account not the only one.
For more data on the Panthère de Cartier, visit Cartier on the web .
Pictured: Medium Rose Gold, $21,200; Small Two-Tone Steel and Yellow Gold, $7,350; Medium Steel, $4,600.