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At The Bench: Dissecting The New Eterna Caliber 39

The Eterna development is one of the company’s more yearning horological items in an extremely prolonged stretch of time. Their point with the Caliber 39 was to make a large scale manufacturing measured development, equipped for fusing complications simply by including them (in a particular style) instead of needing an alternate plate. Rather than copying the assortment of ETA’s 7750, 6497, 2824, and so on, they have figured out how to modularize a solitary development, to be fit for being everything from a manual time-just, to a GMT, to a triple-date chronograph (have confidence I will pull separated the chronograph when they make them accessible). On the whole there are 88 potential stages in the Caliber 39 family.

Before I get into the actual analyzation, I think my involvement in the company in submitting my request is worth referencing. There will in general be a stodgy, mysterious, and by and large unwelcoming disposition in the development world. In case you’re not prepared to purchase a few hundred or thousand developments, most places don’t actually mind and won’t set aside the effort to manage you. For this situation the experience was the inverse. The individual I was in contact with at Eterna was massively accommodating, and a joy to manage despite the fact that this was brief measure of business. I wound up getting the adaptation of the type 39 assigned Eterna type 3909A, which is a 30-jewel development with an automatic module and date.

Taking the 3909 separated, it becomes quickly obvious that it is equipped towards large scale manufacturing. I think I just checked three diverse screw types. Generally tale, however, are what I have begun calling the “vanity plates.” There are three absolutely removable plates held in by 6 non-useful screws (they don’t do anything aside from secure the vanity plates). One signifies the jewel check, one the specific type, and the third, and most curiously replaceable plate, indicates the spot of assembling. At what point can a purchaser of these developments change that plate to suit their own showcasing needs? It alarms me a piece, yet it is nonetheless a shrewd way of having the option to effortlessly check the developments without etching the actual plate.

Modularity is likewise something that you can undoubtedly see during dismantling. The stuff train takes up a moderately modest quantity of room allowing a few different complications to be added to a similar plate. There are additionally some recognizably unused territories of the development on this straightforward automatic date type. As a wearer this isn’t something you will see, yet as a watchmaker, it is intriguing to know.

The hack switch is likewise intriguing. It is extremely long, and is definitely more durable than those found in comparable ETA developments. I presume the  reason the mechanism is however large as it seems to be, and furthermore the explanation there is such a lot of room around the edge of the development, is to open up a lot of room for elective modules. Likewise from a functional angle the distance between the keyless works and the equilibrium is moderately large, requiring a major arrangement.

On the nitpicky side, while collected, this is a lovely development with a dot shot completion, underneath the viewable surfaces, there are clear machining marks left on the plates. This isn’t frightfully goading as this is a raw development. Moreover, I discovered a portion of the oiling on a stock development to be somewhat unnecessary in spots, as for example over the crown wheel .

That shining over the crown wheel is oil

The development itself is extremely straightforward to work on. Its development is exceptionally simple to sort out, dismantle, and re-collect. It is positively constructed, and not a finicky or delicate development using any and all means. I didn’t wind up battling or adjusting my technique to a specific quirks of this development. From a functionality point of view, it’s an extraordinary design.

While dismantling the development I felt a peculiar feeling of history repeating itself managing the escapement . I knew that I had held that careful bed fork and equilibrium wheel previously. It took me a few minutes, however I understood that this escapement is a dead-on duplicate of an ETA. To make certain of this I got an extra 2824 that I have available, and swapped out the bed fork . Sufficiently sure, it ran precisely as it ought to. After understanding this I reached Eterna to see whether the firm made, or purchased, two of the hardest things to make: fountainheads and hairsprings . Surprisingly they were straightforward, and they reacted telling me that they purchase these things. While this is frustrating to have discovered, it not the slightest bit dishonors the designing hindrances that they have had the option to overcome to deliver this development. Rather than escapement designing they put their assets into planning and assembling a massively adaptable large scale manufacturing type. Some other ETA competitors basically cloned ETA developments, however Eterna has made a limitlessly extraordinary item offering that borrows/purchases where it needs to. In the event that you wanted to additionally criticize, their gun pinion and driving wheel are a carbon copy for an ETA plan, and some different components seem to be like some ETA parts, however it doesn’t sabotage their achievement: having the option to offer a powerful top notch Swiss development, at a sensible cost and at sufficiently high creation rates to accommodate a coming business sector deficiency.

Overall, my impression of this development is positive. I think it is unquestionably a sound and energizing new development for the market it expects to enter. It is effectively workable, exceptionally adjustable for watch marks, and is well coordinated to the market. Eterna can offer an immense range of complications and combinations to brands that would then be able to offer them to purchasers at a sensible value point (we trust). While they can’t profess to be a soup to nuts development creator yet, they have entered the market with a compelling contribution. It will be fascinating to perceive what their customer brands will make around this development.

The Specs:

Size: 13 ¼ ligne (30 mm)

BpH: 28,800

Power Reserve: ~65 hours

Mean Rate: +/ – 7 s/d

Maximum Variation between positions: 20 s/d

A note on the development rate – Eterna reveals to us that they will likewise offer a chronometer development which has more tight time-keeping resistances.