Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT Watch Hands-On
Even among all the Royal Oaks and haute horology introduced by Audemars Piguet for SIHH 2018, one could barely neglect something as peculiar, striking, and extraordinary as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT. This isn’t one that gets features for weighty innovation or fundamentally new plan for the brand in 2018, yet it presents Audemars Piguet’s first flying tourbillon just as some plan updates, and it is the most recent in an assortment that is intrinsically polarizing and interesting.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept has been around since 2002 and has been the material for a portion of the brand’s most cutting edge, modern looking haute horology manifestations. It appeared to take the possibility of the Royal Oak Offshore to a significantly more “xtreme” and “xperimental” place. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon GMT turned out in 2011 and presented the fundamental structure that we see proceeded here. More foundation: the flying tourbillon was concocted in Germany in 1920. A flying tourbillon, just to remind you, is a tourbillon that is suspended from under bringing about both a perspective on it unhindered by spans, just as making a sort of gliding impact. It is likewise one approach to make a tourbillon much more fragile, complicated, and expensive.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT really shares the assignment as AP’s first flying tourbillon watch with another development found in the precious stone decked Royal Oak Concept Ladies’ Flying Tourbillon that was presented simultaneously for 2018. Notwithstanding the tourbillon there are some other outstanding changes in the plan and materials for this most recent form. Past Royal Oak Concept watches have utilized a ton of ceramic and other extraordinary materials in the development, for example, carbon fiber –see our active with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon with white ceramic here .
Visible on the watch’s dial side, dark sandblasted titanium was picked this time for the focal extensions, with cleaned and gold-conditioned facets –which is a cool touch, as I would see it. One can likewise see looks at Audemars Piguet’s (in-house, obviously) 2954 development through openings between the different signs. Other than the time and the tourbillon at 9 o’clock, there is the subsequent time region demonstrated by means of a circle at 3 o’clock with a gap that sort of appears as though one of those wide date shows that have, fortunately, generally left design. Halfway uncovered under smoked glass is the piece of the plate not presently showing the time.
It may not be promptly clear what the “H, N, R” at 6 o’clock is for, however it essentially shows the crown setting. H is for the French heures (hours) where you can set the time, N is for neutre (impartial) when the crown is pushed right in, and R is for remontoir (winder) where you can wind the development. In past Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon GMT watches, this was shown by a hand. New for this watch is a plate sign that is somewhat more richly incorporated into the remainder of the plan. This will be basic for the client yet dark for the passerby who will be given an impression of something that simply looks commonly specialized and complicated.
The octagonally faceted bezel (still in ceramic) with its eight supernaturally adjusted screws most clearly attaches the generally beautiful unmistakable Concept family to the more extensive Royal Oak assortment. The case, then again, is drastically not the same as whatever else at AP. Here, it is in sandblasted titanium. Its mathematical facets –repeated in the extensions and other elements –help me to remember a video planning circle, a 8-digit mountain range, Kryton from the science fiction britcom Red Dwarf, or maybe a Linde Werdelin Octopus watch –all fine watch plan motivations. It is 44mm wide, 16.1mm thick, and 100m water-safe with a screw-down crown. The case is very long, nonetheless, with an elastic tie that extends away from the carries, so wrists that can in any case accommodate a 44mm watch ought to be careful with potential overhang.
Also new for the GMT/tourbillon Royal Oak Concept watches is the crown monitor that fuses the pusher at 4 o’clock –now switched up to be rakish rather than round. That pusher propels the second time zone’s circle by 60 minutes. As a hypercritical aside, I accept that in the most exacting sense, watches indicated as “GMT” are “supposed to” show the subsequent time region in 24 hours , though this subsequent time region plate shows 12 hours.
While the flying tourbillon gives a lot of astonish and mechanical interest on the dial side, it isn’t noticeable from the rear of the watch. Here, you can see skeletonized spans with generally brushed and sandblasted completing and a greater amount of the development. One can likewise more plainly see the two barrels and their hearts that give a terrific 237 hours (around 10 days) of force hold. Made of 348 sections and working at 3Hz, the physically twisted Audemars Piguet type 2954 is “new” with its flying tourbillon however shares a ton in common with past Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon GMT watches, including a similar recurrence and force reserve –so it is a greater amount of a development than something absolutely new. Its extension configuration is unique, notwithstanding, and I accept that different changes incorporate the manner in which the crown position marker works all the more just as a disc.
The tourbillon fever has faded away somewhat alongside the horological excess that was unmistakable a couple of years back, and more brands are as of late zeroing in on standard and passage level pieces, worth, and bringing down costs. So why make a flying tourbillon now? To remain competitive in the domain of ultra-extravagance sport-style watches like those from Hublot, Richard Mille, and Roger Dubuis, perhaps authorities should be reminded that the Royal Oak Concept can in any case be new and keep on promoting advance. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT watch (ref. 26589IO.OO.D002CA.01) has a cost of $170,000. audemarspiguet.com