Editors' Picks From The Upcoming Phillips Auctions: 'Start-Stop-Reset: 88 Epic Stainless Steel Chronographs' And 'The Geneva Watch Auction: Three'

Start-Stop-Reset: 88 Epic Stainless Steel Chronographs (May fourteenth, Geneva)

Cara Barrett: Lot 17 – Patek Philippe Reference 1463 In Stainless Steel, Ca. 1945

From the “Start-Stop-Reset” stainless-steel chronograph sale, I have picked the notorious Patek Philippe 1463 in steel. The 1463 is probably the best vintage Patek Philippe chronograph. It is the lone chronograph reference, besides the super-rare 1563, to have a waterproof case and round pushers – and any round pushers, but round pushers detailed with florets that add that extra something special.

As for the one available to be purchased at Phillips, this one is special for several reasons. One, it was retailed by Freccero & Cia, a notable retailer based in Montevideo, Uruguay (see the signature on the dial – which is profoundly desirable for watches like this). Second, this example is said to be the just one in stainless steel with white-gold lists and Arabic numerals (similar to that of a Rolex Sigma dial). Third, it comes with a stainless-steel Gay Frères bracelet. And the estimate? An astounding $350,000 to $700,000 CHF , which is simply one more example of how vintage Patek keeps on crawling up the value ladder. It will be intriguing to perceive how this watch fares at auction.

Jack Forster: Lot 87 – Omega Reference 2077-1 In Stainless Steel, Ca. 1940

This Omega reference 2077-1, as far as I might be concerned, really addresses all that’s fascinating about stainless-steel vintage chronographs. Above all else, although they’re drawing significantly more attention than they used to lately, they’re as yet something of an under-the-radar model. Also, the execution of the dials on these models is incredibly attractive. Third, the case size – uncharacteristically large for the era, at 38.5 mm – really places them in the Goldilocks zone for present day gatherers. That, in addition to the general extents of the “waterproof” case, give this reference an enormous amount of essence on the wrist. And last, but certainly not least, there’s the development: the Omega caliber 33.3 CHRO, a high grade, section wheel-controlled wristwatch chronograph development. This one in particular really beautifully addresses all that makes this reference desirable.

It’s anyone’s theory nowadays where costs will go on these, but at the extremely least, the awesome presence the reference 2077-1 has on the wrist, in addition to the fact that they’re still, if not exactly obscure, a revelation for many, gatherers, will make their valuation and results at auction fascinating to watch in the near future. This piece is estimated to go for between 40,000 and 80,000 CHF .

Arthur Touchot: Lot 56 – Rolex Stainless-Steel Chronograph Reference 4113 Split Seconds

If Rolex made not many complicated pieces in arrangement, they just every made one split-seconds chronograph, the 4113. Indeed, they made 12 examples actually, all in 1942. Just eight have since resurfaced, including this particular example , which came through our workplaces back in 2013, when Christie’s was offering it. Notice the blemishes on the dial are exactly in the same positions, so except if there are twin 4113s out there, it’s the same one. At the time, it hammered in at $1,161,436. It’s a lot larger than watches I typically wear – it measures a stunning 44 mm – but it’s also one of the most slender split seconds chronographs, vintage or new, you’ll ever find.

Photo: Holden Brant

Despite its blemishes, this extremely rare 4113 ought to attract between $800,000 and $1,600,000 CHF .

Louis Westphalen: Lot 55 – Longines 'Tre Tacche' Reference 4974 In Stainless Steel

When the features of the auction were laid out on a table before us, one thing hit me: a flat bezel looks incredible on a chronograph! Yesterday, this impact of this plan peculiarity was obvious, as the contrast between flat lines and straight angles really increased this present chronograph’s quality. Not that my favorite Longines required much with its case already standing at a challenging 37.5 mm – a considerable size for the 1940s. Nonetheless, the genuine reason I picked this Longines was because all I wanted to do was play with the flyback of its caliber 13ZN, arguably one of the greatest chronograph development at any point made – explaining why we went bonkers about it here .

This Longines reference 4974 is required to bring between $50,000 and $100,000 CHF , but I have an admission to make: I was so enamored with its look on my wrist that I didn’t take a gander at the waterproof case back, nicknamed “Tre Tacche” for the three indents that it displays – another vital feature of this dreamy chrono.

The Geneva Watch Auction: Three (May fifteenth, Geneva)

Cara Barrett: Lot 107 – Platinum Rolex Day Date With Azure Blue Stella Dial

I’m going to have somewhat fun with this one and pick the Rolex Day Date in platinum with blue Stella dial; after all it was Phillips who made Day Dates famous with their Glamorous Day Date Sale last year . I couldn’t say whether this is because I really love Day Dates or if the azure blue dial helps me to remember summer (I sense that I have been freezing since September), but this watch is sick. Indeed, I just utilized “debilitated.” This reference 18206 from 1998 actually has the persona captured by the Stella dial Day Dates of the ’70s and ’80s.

Photo: Holden Brant

With the heavy (and I mean heavy) platinum case, President’s bracelet, and lacquered (not enamel) blue dial and applied diamond records, this watch belongs on the wrist of somebody with broad summer plans on the Riviera (or the Shmamptons). Goodness, and it’s a complete set, all for an estimate of 35,000 to 70,000 CHF . Murmur, a young lady can dream.

Jack Forster: Lot 174 – Patek Philippe Yellow-Gold 'Tiffany' Minute Repeater

If you are buying for sheer horological value, as I would see it this moment repeater pocket watch from Patek Philippe is absolutely, decidedly, the watch to bid on in this auction. At 49 mm in diameter, it’s a genuine piece of horological machinery; based on the engraving it hopes to have been a Christmas present to David from Harriet in 1966. I don’t have the foggiest idea what david’s identity was but he took awesome care of this watch; it looks virtually new, with an immaculate case, dial (the watch was retailed by Tiffany) and, most importantly, development. The development and what it can do are the real reasons to buy this watch. This is brief repeater from Patek Philippe from the early twentieth century and that means that it is, if not unbeaten, at least unmatched as far as beauty and quality relative to anything else on the market before or since it was made. The steel work is superb – probably nobody has at any point improved – with stunning, enormous gems set totally in hypnotically beautiful subsets; everything, from the general layout to the last detail of development completing, addresses the most elevated manifestation of the Genevan watchmaking tradition; and a pocket repeater from Patek, made when this one was made, will have a volume, clarity, and virtue of tone you can’t go anyplace else.

I love a decent stainless-steel collectible games watch as much as anyone else but the fact that the estimate on this is not exactly half, or a quarter (or a considerably smaller fraction) of what everybody these days is by all accounts willing to pay for what were basically bits of mid-range commodity watchmaking, could be deciphered as a sign there is something fundamentally un-fixable about human judgment. You can brood about that, or you can do what a smart individual would do and grab this one while the grabbing is acceptable. High estimate is 18k CHF and at that value this is one of the screaming bargains of the auction year.

Arthur Touchot: Lot 192 – Rolex Yellow-Gold 'Stelline' Reference 6062

Photo: Holden Brant

Known as the “Stelline” in Italy, this reference 6062, with a black dial, and star-shapped hour markers, is perhaps the most pined for watches Rolex – or any one – has at any point made. It is one of just two triple calendar and moon-phase references made by Rolex – the other is the 8171 “Paddelone” – and most were assembled with silver dials. Black dial variations are a lot harder to discover, and usually come with dart or spade-shaped hour markers. Call me romantic, but I very much want the star files, which complete the celestial theme established by the moon-phase indication. The 6062 is smaller than the 8171, at 36 mm, but the Oyster case offers some water resistance. For this mint condition and extremely rare 6062, Phillips is wanting to attract bids between $500,000 and $1,000,000 CHF .

Louis Westphalen: Lot 135 –  Patek Philippe Stainless-Steel Reference 530 With Black Dial

On paper, this watch sounded awesome, but on the wrist it was better; this is what I thought when I put this Patek 530 on. We should fail to remember its extraordinary rarity – this is the solitary reference 530 known with this configuration – to exclusively zero in on what makes this Calatrava drop-dead flawless. Obviously, the black dial attracted me, magnified by the silver sparkle of the Breguet numerals, the moment track, and the long signature.

And then there is the case; I mean a “normal” 530 is already fantastically large at 36.5 mm, but here it comes in stainless steel, ironically the most desired metal for vintage Patek nowadays. This may actually be my dream watch, understated and yet special inside and out. Unfortunately, the estimates range between $300,000 and $600,000 CHF , so for me it will remain a beautiful fantasy.

For more on Phillips Watches, and both upcoming auctions, go here . Features from both will be available to see at Phillips New York from April 15 through 18th.

Photos: Will Holloway, except if in any case noted.

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