Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 Watch Hands-On

Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 Watch Hands-On

I love Ferdinand Berthoud . Not the person, but rather the brand – I might have never met him as he passed on approximately 180 years before I was born… The advanced Ferdinand Berthoud I love in light of the fact that the brand and its watches structure a minuscule time container that the mid 21st century watch industry will abandon as the common example of all that it was about. It’s a combination of: a) 21st century fabricating capacities; b) the discretionary taking of a since quite a while ago failed to remember man’s name with expectations of sped up market trust and fan acknowledgment; c-d) the acknowledgment of one current entrepreneur’s dream project accomplished through individual administration and e) the assets of a friendly benefactor brand. Behold, the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1.

All involved pictures by David Bredan

Yes, all that and substantially more is inside the most recent, purposely odd-named Ferdinand Berthoud watch. The Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 features current watchmaking methods like not many others: its quality of execution is just about as noteworthy as its section style, super uncommon movement engineering or fusée and chain arrangement. Chopard’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, an item and watch fellow like not many in the business, has for since quite a while ago been captivated by Ferdinand Berthoud’s accomplishments (even gathered a portion of his works) prior to beginning this ultra-specialty posterity of a brand. In this way, it is to be sure the acknowledgment of one current entrepreneur’s dream project and that is even more evident while considering the no-compromise demeanor vouched for by the outside and movement plan of each Ferdinand Berthoud piece.


From what I realized lately, Mr. Scheufele attests an involved method of regulating how items are created and in spite of the fact that there is significant contrast in estimating and styling between normal Chopard, Chopard L.U.C, and Ferdinand Berthoud watches, if you’ve seen enough of them, you’ll have the option to come to an obvious conclusion and see the subsequent rationality for yourself. I realize I do. Last, a specialty, low-amount brand like Ferdinand Berthoud might have never come to presence without a friendly benefactor brand or gathering to help its first (many) long stretches of advancement and afterward the time it takes it to create the watches clients have requested – we are around four years after the dispatch of the brand they actually go slowly on the grounds that they just can’t produce these watches en masse. Exactly how the cutting edge Bugatti couldn’t have come to be without Volkswagen – and that’s what Ferdinand Berthoud is to Chopard… their Ettore Bugatti brand.

Image from Ferdinand Berthoud

While I’ll make an honest effort to make it worth your time and energy to stay for this article, I’d like you to realize that I have given a more than point by point run-down on the brand, its set of experiences (or, rather, motivation), just as the numerous specialized accomplishments that are found inside and outside the FB1 in the first-historically speaking article distributed about the brand here . There’s no good reason for recounting simply a large portion of the story here and similarly none to rehashing every last bit of it so if it’s not too much trouble, simply click on over to get familiar with about it, in the event that you are so disposed. Nonetheless, on the grounds that this specific piece is as yet something especially deserving of our consideration, I figured we’d simply take numerous lovely pictures and energize ourselves with finding the endless interesting subtleties of the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1.

My strange first pick of such subtleties is the force reserve marker, situated in the upper left section of the dark rhodium plated, nickel silver, hand-glossy silk brushed dial. The brand formally alludes to this component as “extremely sophisticated” and, you know what, it’s one of those uncommon events when I don’t have my Spidey BS detects shivering wildly. This licensed mechanism, since I truly consider everything, is something I surmise in a real sense no one requested. No one on the planet – not even those with a fortune previously spent on watches and another consuming their pocket – contemplated internally “yeah, I like watches and all, however I wish they had an unusual cone shaped influence reserve with an antenna spindle!” And yet, here it is.


I nearly hauled myself into a “let’s attempt to clarify in plain English how this works” yet then I recollected that I said over that I wouldn’t – so kindly look at our past article or, for the full tech-fest depiction, the brand’s site. For the last mentioned, peruser circumspection is prompted. Let us rather leap to the point that must be seen through active pictures or by taking care of the watch in reality: the quality of execution. That cam on the left, whose shape is “the consequence of various complex numerical figurings and different tests,” is a strong piece of metal with angled edges and a mirror cleaned top. It’s so entrancing in its shape thus striking in its execution that I surmise one could miss appreciating the complex, level spring or how there’s a peculiar pivoting part that associates the force reserve pointer with the previously mentioned cam. This for a force reserve sign about 0.2 inches (or a large portion of a centimeter) long.

Image from Ferdinand Berthoud

Then there is the hour show, isolated from the minutes sub-dial in a controller style. The hour markers are perfectly move applied on a glare-sealed sapphire circle – due to course it is glare-sealed! The purpose behind the utilization of the sapphire plate is that guaranteeing the appropriate size of these numerals required a circle so enormous that it would interrupt the open-worked sub-dial in the middle. Things are, for once, rather plain as day from here: the dark numerals contrast emphatically against a finished white foundation while the focal sub-dial looks as open and perfect as anyone might imagine. A charming subtlety is the CVD-blued metal hand that focuses at the hour opening; on a watch with such complexity you presumably don’t even understand that this specific piece itself never moves… however it unquestionably seems as though it did.

Okay, so these two next pictures are an alternate harvest of a similar one photo. Honestly, this is as much a commendation of the Nikon D810 all things considered of the watch, however we’ll center around the last mentioned. The point here is that when one puts a genuinely, genuinely excellent, ultra top of the line watch on, it engages and stuns in manners one for the most part doesn’t even see or figure it out. What one faculties is the watch mass besieging one’s faculties with innumerable subtleties and a steadily evolving stylish, as various surfaces reflect lights and colors.

The two shots (once more, really from a similar one photograph) should show what occurs at a full scale level on the surfaces of such a watch: the dial is mirroring some odd purple-orange tones from any place, while the cleaned pinion of the moment hand mirrors the on-camera streak, my hair and a shelf behind me. The cleaned and inclined edges on the two spokes and the cleaned edges on the minuscule wheels are as much a good to beat all just like the totally painted numerals. What’s more, if this wasn’t enough, simply take a gander at the diverse surface medicines: brushed on the V-formed spokes, the round brushed on the highest point of the wheels, and the dab impacted on the moment track.

Sticking with a similar practice, here you see an oval-molded sapphire gem window designed into the side of the octagonal case, intended to flaunt the section engineering of the movement and the 474 (!) steel (!!) joins and the 300 bits of 0.3mm (!!!) pins in them. Definitely, basically this is a tiny bike chain, however it’s quite an assembling accomplishment. Now we are ruined to the point that we underestimate it how the connections show a substituting cleaned brushed finishing.

Before we were to flip the watch over and stun our faculties yet more with the caseback perspective on the movement, only one speedy note looking into it itself. The Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 comes in a treated steel case, octagonal-formed to honor the marine clocks made by Ferdinand Berthoud in the mid-to-late 1700s. In the event that the case looks astounding, that is for an explanation: the sub-atomic construction of this specific piece of steel was fortified by a thermo-compound interaction including the dispersion of fume stage carbon, along these lines “guaranteeing an uncommon surface hardness of 1,200 Vickers,” that is a couple of times harder than customary steel.

On the other side, the FB-T.FC.R type makes a decent attempt to come up with a name that is as excruciating to type in, as the actual movement was to amass. It came close – you simply take a stab at composing that in. The caseback see resembles no other as well: the tourbillon is totally enormous in its size yet filigree in its plan. The grandly limited spokes leave minuscule space for mistake for the expert who’s hand-completing the sloped edges, just as help keep the general load of a particularly enormous development to a base. What’s more is that the whole upper pen gives off an impression of being cut from a solitary piece of titanium – jumble up one talked and the other two you can just use as work serious toothpicks.


The connect getting the tourbillon from above is lovely to the point that I for since quite a while ago believed it to be a non-utilitarian component, simply something that they put in there in light of the fact that they had space for it… But no, it obviously as a matter of first importance is an extension, that likewise turns out to be a bolt – no doubt created from steel and not from metal. Its edges are inclined and cleaned (and, on the off chance that you want to look, you’ll see that the slope of the top of the bolt delightfully proceeds on the yellow-ish plates at one or the other side), while its top surface is dark mirror cleaned. I have had the (mis-)fortune of having a go at reflect cleaning on a piece around 1/4 the surface territory of this and I should say, it’s incredibly difficult work. The issue is that the whole surface must be totally faultless, no uncertainties or buts, on the grounds that the smallest scratch or lopsidedness would rapidly take the show… thus when you attempt to address one scratch, even with the best consideration it’s still very simple to cause one more moment scratch… thus the little game begins.

The group at Ferdinand Berthoud (counting Guy Bove, who even planned the sort face you see on this watch and who has since left to Breitling…) has gone far past the commonly seen thought of “let’s toss sloped edges and Geneva stripes on it!” and upgraded their play with shadings and surfaces with yet greater innovativeness. Simply take a gander at that strange carved decoration that is made obvious by the skeletonized (and inclined and polished…) opening! This zone shouldn’t even be there, but then they opened the plate up to uncover this unique decoration and the two hand-cleaned screw heads.

I recollect that somebody flipped out when I said I missed appropriately inclined and cleaned spokes on the walker glancing wheels in this $400,000 Jaeger-LeCoultre . Indeed, most importantly, in the event that you look a couple of shots above on the image that demonstrated the opening in the moment sub-dial, you’ll see the appropriately cleaned (yet for the unaided eye really imperceptibly tight) spokes; though on the picture straightforwardly above you’ll see what should be possible on a wheel that’s thick and wide enough that its spokes can at any rate fairly be appreciated with the unaided eye. Thick, calculated, cleaned edges just as inside corners (that’s where the spokes meet the round, external piece of the wheel) are seen, further upgraded by a mirror cleaned chaton with reflect cleaned screws, a mirror-cleaned middle person wheel under, and an exceptionally unobtrusive concentric brushed surface treatment, just as some precisely applied and dark painted, restrictive typography. The entire thing simply washes in light – it’s a really radiant coming together of inventiveness, consideration, and hairsplitting. This one single shot above is a portion of the large brands having their rear ends gave to them right now.


Speaking of large brands who couldn’t hold a light here: see that little wrench on top of the barrel? That’s the real component that propelled Vacheron Constantin to have the Maltese cross as its logo – and keeping in mind that they don’t put it on their watches any longer, it’s nonchalantly hanging around here, in what has all the earmarks of being a lovely game plan of extremely uncommon watch movement components. I just thought about this however I’ll put it all out there and say that those two plates above and underneath are wonderful to convey one’s engraved initials. While at it, simply take a gander at the quantity of angled edges and the complexity of their shape: even that Maltese-cross-like piece has its very edge sloped, yet so is the fight hatchet state of the piece right to it, and even that minuscule indent that sticks out to one side. At that point take a gander at how the gold of the barrel is reflected by the edge at the actual left of the picture. This is effectively, and I mean easily past anything I’ve seen from Vacheron in a very long time (and I’ve seen their top-level stuff), however I’d venture to such an extreme as to say this is even past Lange now. Curiously, you can get a Lange with fusée and chain for about a similar cash as this Ferdinand Berthoud. I know which one I’d purchase with my nonexistent quarter million dollar watch financial plan – however on the off chance that you’d spend yours on the Lange, we could in any case be companions. Perceive that it is so natural to get along?

If you thought the 9.89mm thick, 1700s-propelled, 6-column developed (for example empty), 1,158-section movement would be the place where the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 ran out of puff, reconsider! The all-machined, non-stepped titanium twofold collapsing fasten highlights cleaned and, what the hell, even perlage’ed surfaces just as a minuscule miniature change with the F<- >B logo applied in cleaned alleviation. This isn’t your off-the-rack fasten you can arrange from anybody – even top-level providers would leave your email request richly unanswered, had you had the uncovered cheek to contact them with a particularly complex solicitation. Albeit this may absolutely be a provided part (wherein case somebody must’ve made the company administrators drink a couple of an excessive number of glasses of merlot to help them pursue this), I can likewise thoroughly envision Karl-Friedrich Scheufele nonchalantly walking around the production, picking an architect like a 15th century warlord picks perhaps the best contender for an uncommon mission, and providing him the immediate request of creating 20 bits of very complicated titanium catches. “Don’t you dare come back to me except if it has some odd refined stuff on it I have never seen before!

The twofold moved edge, hand-sewn, “artisanal” cowhide tie is produced using a solitary piece of crocodile since I surmise it’s harder to do it that route than some other. It the two feels strikingly tough and eminently flexible all simultaneously – once more, somebody was pushed to go past what is utilized on different watches. It’s clever, on the grounds that a similar way a $10,000 watch will typically have a more pleasant calfskin lash than a $500 watch, similar works with 6-figure estimated observes as well. I took a gander at some €480,000 Lange pictures and I’m sorry, yet this lash decimates that alive. Perhaps it really did just that.

What preferable approach to complete over with a shot demonstrating all the mirror cleaned metal bits of the dial reflecting something blue from behind me at the hour of snapping this photo. My spirit is essentially not yet set up to take this watch out into this present reality, where there is warm daylight, leaves moving on the branches above head, mists projecting delicate light all over… And better believe it, this is what individuals with a great deal of cash and similarly as much sense are continually searching for in a ultra-extravagance watch. They still at times settle for less – a pass up a major name and a ton of stooping showcasing – yet it is this foul degree of meticulousness and quality of execution that the old cash realizes they ought to get from watch marks that publicize to be just about as old as their families.

Image from Ferdinand Berthoud

With this as a top priority, I think this brand shouldn’t have been called Ferdinand Berthoud. All things being equal, it ought to have been named after the one who took his affection for all that’s extraordinary in fine watches and emptied it into a solitary beyond reach work out. I don’t at all know him, yet my impression of him is that of an extremely modest man, which is the reason I think this watch says FERDINAND BERTHOUD on the dial – and not Scheufele. Around a long time from today (and 480 years after Berthoud’s prime) I figure it ought to have been the advanced entrepreneur’s name that was recollected when one of these watches appeared – and I say that regardless of whether this watch, somely, took motivation from a clockmaker of the late 18th century. This activity is so unique and exhibits such enormous exertion, that I am puzzled why it conveys a long-dead man’s name. Apologies, Mr. Berthoud.

Price for one of the 20 Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 watches is $241,500. ferdinandberthoud.ch