H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Flying Hours Watch Hands-On
Swiss H. Moser & Cie. are known for their flawlessly moderate yet complicated watches, exemplified by watches like the Endeavor Perpetual Calendar Concept we covered here . Whenever I see another H. Moser & Cie. watch, this is the sort of watch I’m anticipating: their extraordinary turn on a conventional high complication. The H. Moser & Cie. Try Flying Hours takes this idea to the following level, rehashing the “wandering hours” complication whilst keeping up the brand’s signature style. We covered this watch momentarily when it was reported for SIHH 2018, and here I will talk about how this watch functions and why it’s a critical improvement for the brand.
H. Moser & Cie. are essential for a family-run company called MELB Holding, which is driven by previous Chief Executive of Audemars Piguet , Georges-Henri Meylan. MELB Holding additionally possesses Hautlence , an extravagance watchmaker with an emphasis on new and inventive approaches to show the time, and Precision Engineering AG, an escapement and equilibrium spring maker. From multiple points of view the H. Moser & Cie. Attempt Flying Hours is a result of the collaboration between these sister brands. The new C806 type fueling this watch was created and delivered mutually between H. Moser & Cie. and Hautlence, while the escapement and equilibrium spring were created by Precision Engineering AG. The general look of this watch is unmistakably H. Moser & Cie. with the “Funky Blue” rage dial and the absence of any extraneous data dial-side, while the new interpretation of a meandering hours time show is only such a thing you’d hope to see on a Hautlence timepiece.
The meandering hours complication positively isn’t new, with perhaps the soonest model being the Tabernacle Night Clock, worked by the Vatican clockmaker Pietro Tommaso Campaniin in the 17th century for Pope Alexander VII of Rome. Audemars Piguet were one of the main watchmakers to reevaluate the meandering hour complication in 1991 with the “Star Wheel,” which utilized an arrangement of three straightforward plates mounted on star-shaped wheels (from which the watch determines its name) that are thusly joined to a turning place wheel which gets the circles across a fixed 120-degree minutes track. Each plate highlighted 4 numerals (for twelve altogether) and could turn autonomously on the middle wheel to propel the hours after each full transformation. An advanced illustration of this complication is the Arnold & Son Golden Wheel (which we covered here) , likewise including a focal second hand with “dead-beat seconds” complication.
It appears to be fitting that Georges-Henri Meylan, as a previous supervisor of Audemars Piguet should be the one to re-imagine the meandering hours once more. The H. Moser & Cie. Try Flying Hours utilizes a framework that is like the “Star Wheel,” however this watch includes a focal turning minutes plate to which the peripheral hour circles adjust when showing the current time. In the above picture, the time being shown is roughly 7:26 –the highest hour plate is dynamic, with the numeral 7 including a white foundation to improve neatness against the blue dial and giving a little bolt underneath to call attention to the current moment. When the moment circle approaches the turn of the hour, the left-side hour plate will pivot to show the numeral 8 with a white foundation, demonstrating the new current hour and pointing towards “00” on the approaching moment track. At around 10 minutes past 8 o’clock the top circle will pivot away from 7 to a point half-path somewhere in the range of 7 and 10, delivering this plate “inactive” until we reach 10 o’clock.
The H. Moser & Cie. Attempt Flying Hours’ irregular time show is hard to fold your head over from the start, yet once you’ve seen the watch in activity it becomes very readable. All things being equal, you should simply search for a white-foundation number along the external circles that is highlighting a recorded piece of the inward plate. Watching the dials draw in and withdraw around the turn of the hour is outwardly very hypnotizing, and gives some mechanical curiosity dial-side without the requirement for skeletonization or open heart shows that can take away from neatness. The white gold case gauges in at 42mm by 12mm, which thinking about the programmed development and “planetary gears” flying hour mechanism is very thin. The watch comes attached to an uncommon beige kudu leather tie with a white gold catch, a sort of African pronghorn whose leather is normally scratched and scarred from the animal’s touching habits among thorny trees, making each piece unique.
The development side of the H. Moser & Cie. Attempt Flying Hours is no less capturing, with the type C806 being shown in the entirety of its wonder through the sapphire caseback. This is a free-sprung development with an equilibrium connect for added steadiness, wavering at 21,600vph or 3Hz. It offers a force save of 72 hours, highlights 34 gems, and a halfway skeletonized, bi-directional twisting rotor in strong red gold. This is a magnificently finished development, with perlage on the base plate, “Moser twofold stripes” enrichment on the extensions, and a wave finishing to the swaying mass around the company’s stepped marking. On the off chance that any analysis could be made of the caseback, it would be the excess of branding; H. Moser & Cie. is recorded intensely at 12 o’clock on the white gold case, again on the rotor, and a third time in the development, as though to compensate for the absence of text dial-side.
The H. Moser & Cie. Attempt Flying Hours is a watch that sets aside some effort to completely appreciate. When you fold your head over the time show mechanism it becomes very simple to peruse, and does as such in an outwardly novel way. The styling is unmistakably Moser with a touch of Hautlence innovation, and the re-development of the meandering hours complication is both special and somehow fulfilling when connected with the history of Georges-Henri Meylan and Audemars Piguet’s Star Wheel. As I would see it there are just two significant ways this watch could be improved; by lessening the sticker price of $32,000 to perhaps feasible levels (I’d be thoroughly fine with a steel or titanium case), and by delivering a non-restricted release rendition, as the 60 pieces being created won’t last long. h-moser.com