Hands-On: The 1950s Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar Reference 5516 For Sale At Christie’s Next Week, And Why I Love It So Much (Live Pics, Thoughts)
Reference 5516 was made in nine examples, six of which include the moonphase at 6 o’clock.
What makes the 5516 so unique? To begin with, the extraordinariness. The watch was made in only nine examples. Compare that to any reference of a vintage Patek Philippe unending schedule. We are talking a little part. Then compare the vintage AP unending creation numbers to the creation of any vintage ceaseless schedule from Vacheron, Lange, Zenith, Rolex, Omega, or IWC. Oh, that’s right, none of those companies made a vintage ceaseless schedule wristwatch, period.
Next, the 5516 was the absolute first wristwatch to contain a never-ending schedule with a jump year pointer – far before Patek Philippe’s 3450 reference which would not show up until the mid 1980s.
AP’s reference 5516 was the absolute first wristwatch to show jump year, ever.
As you can see, the 5516 shows jump year at 12 o’clock. In six of the nine known examples of this reference, the moonphase is at the lower part of the dial while jump year is at top. We actually see this design today with AP’s most recent never-ending schedule Royal Oak . Keep in mind, this watch dates right back to 1957, two years before jump year pointers were seen on any Patek wristwatch, and three preceding we’d see it on any other watch.
What raises this 5516 considerably further is the two-conditioned, silvered nature of the dial. You can see the external date ring, in addition to every one of the three sub-registers are a silvered shading, set against the grayish of the actual dial. This straightforward plan quality is one that truly makes this AP shine comparative with its companions, and again shows how thoughtfully AP’s were built in last century.
Notice the profound veneer printing of the first dial.
The 5516 is ostensibly one of AP’s most significant references ever for the reasons referenced previously. Be that as it may, what makes this watch exceptional to me is exactly how lovely it is. The downturned carries, the 37 mm measurement, the absolutely readable, however complicated, two-tone dial. This watch is totally shocking, and in my conviction, preferred investigating any comparable Patek Philippe from the time frame – except for maybe this 2497 platinum .
Reference 5516 has enormous wrist-presence, seen here on the photographer’s wrist.
Finally, this specific example, which is accessible by means of Christie’s New York in its upcoming deal, seems, by all accounts, to be in really wonderful condition. I have seen wonderful examples of the 5516, both in the Marcus assortment and in AP’s private stores , and I accept this watch to be as great, if worse than any I’ve seen. Eventually, this could be perhaps the most wonderful, generally uncommon, and most significant mid-century AP’s, in conceivably the best condition. What’s more, that is why, similar to I said in the start of this post, I am here informing you regarding it. This is genuinely a world-class watch, and I earnestly hope it goes to a world-class authority who will value it for all that it is.
Christie’s has put a gauge of $150,000 to $300,000 on this 1957 Audemars Piguet interminable schedule, and you can peruse more about it here .
Photos: Atom Moore