Hands-On: The Girard-Perregaux 1966 Full Calendar, Now In Steel (A Kinda-Sorta James Bond Watch)
A lasting top choice in Girard-Perregaux’s 1966 assortment, the Full Calendar was accessible just in valuable metals before this year. Interestingly, Girard-Perregaux is currently offering the watch in steel, at about a large portion of the cost of the pink and white gold models – a piece of a progressing pattern we’ve seen for this present year to introduce steel forms of watches that in the past were just offered in gold, as a method of widening the client base for fine watchmaking.
The Girard-Perregaux 1966 Full Calendar is currently accessible in steel, at about a large portion of the cost of gold.
The in general dial plan (if not the size of the watch) could undoubtedly be directly from 1957, the year ‘From Russia With Love’ was published.
There’s nothing amiss with that all things considered. The watch is an attractive one in gold and it isn’t any less attractive in steel. It very well may be the model Ian Fleming depicts on the wrist of the professional killer Donovan “Red” Grant in From Russia With Love, though Grant’s watch is gold in the book. I’ve consistently contemplated whether somebody at Girard-Perregaux trusted that the Full Calendar may get on as a collectable James Bond watch; that hasn’t occurred (in any event not to the extent that it’s happened to the Rolex Submariner, God knows) however it’s a fun back-channel association between the Full Calendar and a smidgen of mainstream scholarly history, regardless of whether it’s an association that you’ll need to clarify in case you’re a proprietor (you probably won’t need to in case you’re in the company of individual watch lovers, however; the Full Calendar’s similarity to the Grant watch is sensibly notable, at any rate in that segment where James Bond and horological interests cover). Had the watch made it into a Bond film, we may be discussing a completely unique circumstance, however.
At 40mm x 11mm it’s all in all too large to be viewed as a traditionally proportioned dress watch, yet that doesn’t hurt its style (what’s more, Fleming called Grant’s watch “cumbersome” for whatever that is worth). It’s as generally planned a watch as you could need however and for the individuals who like that tasteful, need something somewhat more required than a basic time-and-date watch, yet figure out the condition of time (for example) excessively distant from the domain of regular reasonableness, it’s an extraordinary decision. The solitary potential gotcha here is the development – explicitly, the size of the movement.
The GP type 3300 is a marginally antiquated however profoundly respected additional level movement.
The Girard-Perregaux type 3300 is an in-house, self-twisting extra-level type and it’s been an incredibly adaptable motor for GP, just as for different brands (maybe most strikingly, MB&F has utilized Girard Perregaux 3000 arrangement developments as base types). It isn’t, be that as it may, a particularly enormous development, first having been delivered by GP in 1994 and planned with a marginally unique arrangement of needs than various later developments. The development of the Full Calendar is particular, so you’re getting something slightly thicker than the 23.9mm x 2.98mm thickness of the base type 3000 programmed development, yet the entire thing actually wears pleasantly. The view through the caseback, in any case, is of a 11 1/2 ligne (23.9mm) development, which will trouble a few group. There’s a dreadful part of steel around the sapphire window.
I comprehend why this irritates individuals in the theoretical, however such a thing used to trouble me more than it does now. The Audemars Piguet type 3120, which is a totally incredible development, can be found in the 41mm Royal Oaks and nobody appears to flutter an eyelash, so it’s difficult to comprehend why GP ought to be singled out for analysis (except if obviously you’re one of those people who’s pestered by such a thing in all cases, in which case, indeed, there’s no contending with taste). The thought, obviously, behind making a development under 13 lignes/30mm (which is a benchmark simply because it was the biggest size wristwatch development the Geneva Observatory used to take into account chronometry competitions) is to have something you can use in a more extensive assortment of case sizes. It bodes well, and the contrary side of the coin is that in the event that you end up being a company making watches, and you end up reasoning that 40mm+ watches are digging in for the long haul, however where bread and butter deals will be for years to come, you can undoubtedly wind up creating developments so large that they’re not useful for all the more traditionally measured watches (which has unquestionably happened to some brands).
That said, I wager loads of us wouldn’t see any problems this as a 38mm watch the slightest bit, in spite of the fact that, if the thickness stayed unaltered (which it may need to, because of the measured development) you could wind up with a somewhat dangerous perspective ratio.
The Girard-Perregaux 1966 Full Calendar has a conventional moonphase and date sub-dial.
In steel, the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Full Calendar is a strong expansion to the 1966 setup, and a moderate one too.
At $10,900, the Full Calendar is an extraordinary expansion to the developing harvest of moderate, yet great, steel wristwatches. I will not be sorry at all to see this pattern proceed. Upward value creep has been the worst thing about watchmaking throughout the most recent decade and with whole socioeconomics adequately estimated out of the game where the Big Three are concerned, a re-visitation of more reasonable (or possibly, less plainly exorbitant) evaluating is something to be welcomed. Sort of unexpected that a watch that is become a faction top pick for having been worn by a deadly, neurotic executioner for-enlist is somewhat of a perfect example for mental soundness, however in an insane world, you take your common sense reasonableness where you find it.
The Girard-Perregaux Full Calendar in steel: 40mm x 11mm; day, month, date, age and period of the moon. Development, self-twisting GP in-house type GP03300-0118. 46 hour power save. See it at girard-perregaux.com.