Hands-On: The Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée
Horological plating is a niche interest within a niche diversion (despite the fact that watchmaking isn’t as niche a pastime as it used to be – in 2004, Revolution Magazine had not at this point launched, and in the event that you were American and wanted to peruse a watch magazine you actually needed to chase for them between the model railroading and numismatics magazines on the newsstand; the space name HODINKEE.com would not be enrolled for an additional four years).
It’s a niche interest for a few reasons: most importantly, if it’s finished utilizing conventional strategies, techniques, and materials, it’s extraordinarily work escalated and hence extremely, costly; and besides, it’s by and large used to create, at any rate in horology, compact works of workmanship instead of – goodness, I don’t have the foggiest idea – go-anywhere tokens of tough manliness , for example. For each one of those reasons you simply don’t see that much of it by any stretch of the imagination, and on the off chance that you do want to see it – face to face – you normally must be in the perfect spot at the perfect time. The Patek Philippe stall at Baselworld, for example, regularly contains an outright Ali Baba’s cavern of a depository of polish brightened wristwatches, pocket watches and clocks; in the event that you visit Jaeger-LeCoultre you may have a chance to see the absolute most accomplished lacquer work in the business, yet you need to go to Le Sentier… thus on.
If you’ve never truly taken a gander at the artistic expression previously, here’s a little presentation. Plating is fundamentally the utilization of shaded glass to frame an ornamental surface over a base material, similar to gold. Hued glass pieces are ground by hand into a powder, and the powder is blended in with some liquid substance like oil or water and afterward applied to a surface. When the polish is applied, you at that point fire the dial in an oven at a temperature sufficiently high to liquefy the powder into a solitary surface (the interaction is called vitrification) at somewhere between 800-1200 degrees Celsius. Once in a while twelve or much more firings must be done, contingent upon the dial, and at any stage things like the formation of breaks or air pockets can destroy long stretches of work and power you to begin once again (which is presumably why so numerous enamellists like to work in provincial withdrawal – it’s not possible for anyone to hear them swearing).
Enamel work is grouped by technique and the jargon’s entrancing – there is cloisonné, for case, in which fine gold wires are twisted into shapes that structure singular cells for the finish; or champlevé, which includes setting lacquer into shallow cells made in a metal surface with etcher’s apparatuses. The utilization of finish requires a lot of ability and persistence, particularly owing to the extraordinary control the enamellist needs to apply over now and again minute zones – little brushes and even quill pens can be utilized, and in truly fine polish small work of art brushes having just a solitary hair are once in a while utilized. Horological plating was something of a perishing workmanship during the early quartz period yet it’s now back incredibly. Likewise with any high art technique, there are alternate ways to be wary of – cloisonné, for occurrence, can be emulated by utilizing machine instruments to deliver slim walled metal patterns instead of the conventional hand-framed wire, and polish smaller than usual canvas ought to be deliberately recognized from purported “cold finish” which is another word for hued, thermosetting epoxy resins.
One of the most troublesome is the technique called paillonnée – the technique of covering a surface with a few base layers of veneer, and afterward putting small gold spangles called paillons on the polish base coat and afterward, at last, covering the paillons with a top covering of fondant, or straightforward lacquer. The work starts with really making the paillons – this is an art in itself, as it includes making an exceptional punch looking like the last paillon, and then punching them out individually from amazingly slender sheets of 22 or 24 karat gold foil. Now you have something that is so fragile – recall, unadulterated gold is incredibly delicate – that it must be taken care of by controlling it with a delicate brush; you need to then move the paillon into the correct situation on the lacquer base. On account of a watch like the Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée, you need to do this many occasions and without fail, you need to put the paillon in precisely the privilege position.
This specific dial is really a combination of two techniques – there is simply the paillonnée <, and afterward there is the motor turning on the gold dial under; veneer over motor turning is known as flinqué. If you’d prefer to improve thought what it really takes to make one of these dials there is a quite reminiscent little video over on Jaquet Droz’s website which you can see here .
The development – likewise with another Jaquet Droz wristwatch we as of late took a gander at involved – is the type 2653.4, which is really gotten from the F. Piguet 1185 and as we referenced in that prior story, it’s a just exquisite piece of work which has acquired as opposed to lost charm over the years.
To comprehend the allure of such a watch, it’s important to comprehend and discover engaging such an incredibly customary, extremely Old World, European approach to extravagance and craftsmanship that it addresses, and wearing it requires a specific sum of fearlessness, however in the present watch culture, a specific capacity to dismiss the assessments of others. Be that as it may, for the few with both the methods and the preference for this sort of approach, the paillonnée enamel watches from Jaquet Droz address an association with quite possibly the most somberly requesting and refined beautiful practices in the whole long term history of compact mechanical horology.
As shown, the Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée in rose gold is offered at $42,000. View the whole assortment here , and afterward check out our 2014 inclusion of an exemplary polish dial Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde.