Hands-On: The Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée
Horological plating is a niche interest within a niche diversion (despite the fact that watchmaking isn’t as niche a leisure activity as it used to be – in 2004, Revolution Magazine had not at this point launched, and in the event that you were American and wanted to peruse a watch magazine you actually needed to chase for them between the model railroading and numismatics magazines on the newsstand; the area name HODINKEE.com would not be enrolled for an additional four years).
It’s a niche interest for a few reasons: most importantly, if it’s finished utilizing conventional strategies, techniques, and materials, it’s unfathomably work escalated and in this way extremely, costly; and also, it’s by and large used to create, at any rate in horology, convenient works of craftsmanship instead of – gracious, I don’t have the foggiest idea – go-anywhere seals of tough manliness , for example. For each one of those reasons you simply don’t see that much of it by any stretch of the imagination, and on the off chance that you do want to see it – face to face – you ordinarily must be in the perfect spot at the perfect time. The Patek Philippe corner at Baselworld, for example, normally contains a flat out Ali Baba’s cavern of a depository of lacquer designed wristwatches, pocket watches and tickers; in the event that you visit Jaeger-LeCoultre you may have a chance to see the absolute most accomplished veneer work in the business, however you need to go to Le Sentier… thus on.
If you’ve never truly taken a gander at the fine art previously, here’s a little presentation. Plating is essentially the utilization of shaded glass to frame a brightening surface over a base material, similar to gold. Hued glass pieces are ground by hand into a powder, and the powder is blended in with some liquid substance like oil or water and afterward applied to a surface. When the finish is applied, you at that point fire the dial in a furnace at a temperature sufficiently high to liquefy the powder into a solitary surface (the cycle is called vitrification) at somewhere between 800-1200 degrees Celsius. Now and then twelve or significantly more firings must be done, contingent upon the dial, and at any stage things like the formation of breaks or air pockets can destroy long stretches of work and power you to begin once again (which is presumably why so numerous enamellists like to work in provincial separation – it’s not possible for anyone to hear them swearing).
Enamel work is grouped by technique and the jargon’s entrancing – there is cloisonné, for case, in which fine gold wires are twisted into shapes that structure singular cells for the veneer; or champlevé, which includes setting lacquer into shallow cells made in a metal surface with etcher’s instruments. The use of finish requires a lot of ability and persistence, particularly owing to the extraordinary control the enamellist needs to apply over here and there minute regions – minuscule brushes and even quill pens can be utilized, and in truly fine veneer smaller than usual work of art brushes having just a solitary hair are now and then utilized. Horological plating was something of a perishing craftsmanship during the early quartz period yet it’s now back incredibly. Similarly as with any high art technique, there are alternate ways to be wary of – cloisonné, for occasion, can be imitated by utilizing machine devices to create flimsy walled metal patterns instead of the customary hand-shaped wire, and lacquer smaller than normal composition ought to be deliberately recognized from purported “cold veneer” which is another word for hued, thermosetting epoxy resins.
One of the most troublesome is the technique called paillonnée – the technique of covering a surface with a few base layers of finish, and afterward putting small gold spangles called paillons on the polish base coat and afterward, at last, covering the paillons with a top covering of fondant, or straightforward lacquer. The work starts with really making the paillons – this is an art in itself, as it includes making a unique punch looking like the last paillon, and then punching them out individually from very flimsy sheets of 22 or 24 karat gold foil. Now you have something that is so sensitive – recall, unadulterated gold is incredibly delicate – that it must be taken care of by controlling it with a delicate brush; you need to then move the paillon into the correct situation on the veneer base. On account of a watch like the Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée, you need to do this many occasions and without fail, you need to put the paillon in precisely the privilege position.
This specific dial is really a combination of two techniques – there is simply the paillonnée <, and afterward there is the motor turning on the gold dial under; finish over motor turning is known as flinqué. If you’d prefer to improve thought what it really takes to make one of these dials there is a quite reminiscent little video over on Jaquet Droz’s website which you can see here .
The development – similarly as with another Jaquet Droz wristwatch we as of late took a gander at involved – is the type 2653.4, which is really gotten from the F. Piguet 1185 and as we referenced in that previous story, it’s an essentially dazzling piece of work which has acquired as opposed to lost charm over the years.
To comprehend the allure of such a watch, it’s important to comprehend and discover engaging such an incredibly customary, Old World, European approach to extravagance and craftsmanship that it addresses, and wearing it requires a specific sum of fearlessness, however in the present watch culture, a specific capacity to ignore the assessments of others. In any case, for the few with both the methods and the preference for this sort of approach, the paillonnée enamel watches from Jaquet Droz address an association with perhaps the most grimly requesting and refined beautifying customs in the whole long term history of convenient mechanical horology.
As shown, the Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée in rose gold is offered at $42,000. View the whole assortment here , and afterward check out our 2014 inclusion of an exemplary lacquer dial Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde.