Hands-On: The Parmigiani Fleurier Centum Perpetual Calendar Openworked Graphite
Parmigiani Fleurier Centum Perpetual Calendar Openworked Graphite: a cooler interpretation of the first Centum Perpetual.
The unique variant of the Centum Perpetual is precisely indistinguishable from this watch, and, the Tonda case, smoothed out drags, and Geneva (Fleurier) striped dial regardless, it comes across as a very conventional execution of an interminable schedule. The retrograde date sign and twofold moonphase are very much coordinated into the general plan and it’s an enjoyably amicable, in fact intriguing wristwatch.
The unique variant of the Tonda Centum Perpetual Calendar.
The Openworked form then again is a considerable amount all the more unmistakably outwardly captivating and has a cooler, maybe more present day vibe over the first, it’s being offered distinctly in white gold, in a 42mm x 11.15mm case, and the range of grays, pale blues, and blacks gives it a visual lucidity that plays well against the conservative feel of a never-ending schedule complication. Strangely, in spite of the way that you can see so many of the never-ending schedule components, the Openworked doesn’t appear to be outwardly jumbled at all in comparison with the current model; the blue color given to the dial just as the short proximity of tones does a great deal to keep all the visual components well integrated.
As with the first Centum, the wide range of various signs are outlined by the retrograde date show. The moonphase is precise to one day’s deviation in 122 years (an ordinary moonphase, driven by a 59-toothed circle, is off by one day each 31.5 months. High exactness moonphase plates have become pretty much de rigueur for haute horlogerie watches, regardless of whether never-ending schedules or something else and given the way that a never-ending schedule is tied in with shutting the hole between real cosmic orbital proportions and their mechanical models, it’s something extraordinary to have.
The level of immersion of shading in the clear dial functions admirably as well; it’s light enough that you get an unmistakable gander at the unending schedule works, yet dull sufficient that basic data truly pops, and you get a pleasant, unpretentious yet positive profundity impact as well.
Dial tone and configuration gives you an incredible profundity impact just as great legibility.
Looking intently, you can see the never-ending schedule instruments and the completing on the development too.
The development is Parmigiani’s in-house type PF333, running in 32 gems at 28,800 vph, with a 50-hour power hold graciousness of two in-arrangement origin barrels. For a never-ending schedule, a more drawn out force hold is consistently somewhat of an or more as it guarantees that if the watch is off the wrist for a day or two, odds are you’ll be saved the difficulty of re-setting it (however almost certainly, customers for the Centum Openworked will have the watch on a winder regardless). Development finish is, as is typically the situation for Parmigiani’s haute horlogerie offerings, exceptionally strong if not at a remarkable operatic degree of, say, A. Lange & Söhne.
Caliber PF333 offers a 50-hour power save – a long force hold is consistently an or more in a never-ending calendar.
The type is programmed and twisted by the strong gold rotor.
On the wrist there are no curve balls; it’s comfortable and exquisite and keeping in mind that you may think from the start it’d come across a little gaudy, the somewhat specialized flavor (politeness the clear dial, just as the utilization of white metal) makes the Centum Perpetual Openworked somewhat stealthier than you may expect and too, a watch with an adaptable enough feel that you can spruce up or down around it, pretty much as you see fit. An extremely decent expansion to the Tonda arrangement and an intriguing contextual investigation on controlling light, feeling of profundity, and shading in watch design.
Teardrop drags and a streamlined profile: signature components of the Tonda family.
On the wrist, the watch wears pleasantly and has a cool appear to be that is exceptionally unique from that of the first Tonda Centum Perpetual Calendar.
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Centum Perpetual Calendar Openworked Graphite: case, white gold, 42mm x 11.15mm, 30m water safe with sapphire precious stones front and back. Dial, blue sapphire; graphite retrograde date ring; rodium plated files. Development, Parmigiani type PF333, self-winding unending schedule; long term twofold moonphase; retrograde date; 30mm x 5.5mm with 50-hour power save. Price, $75,000. See the Tonda assortment at parmigiani.ch.