Hands-On: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Chronor Anniversaire
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Chronor Anniversaire was made for the twentieth commemoration of the establishing of the brand.
The Chronor Anniversaire helps me to remember a discussion I had with Cartier’s Carole Forestier a few years prior. I was visiting the company’s assembling place in Le Locle, and throughout an introduction about the company’s tourbillons I ended up pondering so anyone might hear exactly how in fact troublesome a tourbillon was compared to different complications. Carole gave me a fairly serious look and said, plainly, that in her view the tourbillon was inconsequentially simple in comparison to planning a great chronograph movement.
I consider that discussion each time a truly new, incorporated chronograph development comes out, and looking at the situation objectively, such things are truly lovely uncommon. An all-new chronograph development comes along much less regularly than pretty much some other sort of watch I can consider; and I think it says something regarding how truly testing they are to make, that the chronograph was the remainder of the significant complications to be created, and that the programmed chronograph didn’t show up until 1969.
While it’s stylish in certain circles to peer down on the Valjoux arrangement of programmed developments, truly creating chronographs can be restrictively costly, just as actually testing. The type PF361 is even more exceptional for being a rattrapante chronograph. The rattrapante, or split-seconds chronograph, is one in which you can time two separate stretches; the exemplary model is the lap season of two distinct ponies, or vehicles, or greyhounds, or what have you.
The large news here is the all new, in-house, strong rose gold rattrapante chronograph type PF361.
The exemplary rattrapante has at its heart a fastidious component that permits the seconds hands to part. The two chronograph hands are superimposed, and when you start the chronograph, they run together so it would seem that there’s just one hand. At the point when you press the split catch (in the Chronor Anniversaire, the split catch is co-hub with the crown) two jaws land on a wheel which conveys the split hand, freezing it in position. The split hand is mounted on a line and the long turn for different seconds hand goes through its middle. On the off chance that you press the split catch once more, the jaws open, and a ruby roller mounted on a spring stacked switch presses against a heart formed cam on the split seconds hand pipe. The cam turns under this tension until the roller comes to rest in the absolute bottom of the cam, which relates to the situation where two hands are superimposed – the hands are currently “un-split” so to speak.
The development plates and extensions have been intricately brightened and the impact is luxuriously ornamental.
The system isn’t such a lot of complex regarding parts (brief repeater has significantly additional moving pieces) however it is complex as far as exactness and change. Donald de Carle, in Complicated Watches And Their Repair, says, “The split seconds component should be light in real life and in this manner it is sensitive.” He proceeds to talk about the incredible torments that must be taken to guarantee the hands are decisively arranged, just as notice against various potential missteps in adjusting that can cause a rattrapante chronograph to breakdown. In light of current circumstances vintage rattrapante chronographs are energetically gathered and albeit, as most complications, it’s conceivable presently to create them mechanically, they’re still broadly regarded by watch fans – and new integrated rattrapante chronograph developments come along once in a while indeed.
The chronograph and split time capacities are composed by two section wheels.
The connect structure on this development is very luxurious as well.
Above you can see the section wheel that controls the split capacity, just as the split seconds haggle jaws that hold and delivery the split hand.
While Parmigiani merits a beautiful major round of adulation for the specialized accomplishment, you can kick off something new actually for an excessively long time however on the off chance that you’re not making something that pulls heartstrings, a watch is an intense sell. Consequently it doesn’t hurt that the type PF361 is drop-dead stunning. This is a 13 1/2 ligne (30.6mm) x 8.5mm development, made of 18k rose gold; it’s a section wheel controlled, vertical grip rattrapante chronograph, with punctured, slanted, and engraved scaffolds (clearly). In spite of the fact that extremely customary in appearance, actually it’s very present day, running at 36,000 vph. There’s a 65-hour power save and the completing’s simply top notch – in gold, this is a richly lovely instrument, with such a plenty of knockout anglage it plays with nearly being excessively. In case you’re searching for unadulterated horological sight to behold PF361 is straight up there.
Caliber PF361 is an uncommon illustration of another arrival of a coordinated rattrapante chronograph caliber.
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Chronor Anniversaire highlights a grand feu enamel dial, in one or the other white or imperial blue.
For me there’s just a single potential gotcha: a two-followed hand in a running seconds, or chronograph, sub-register normally appears to be somewhat influenced to me. It does here as well, however less so than expected; I don’t know why but rather perhaps this is on the grounds that the remainder of the dial is exceptionally spotless, cleaned up, and by and large without incidental ornamentation.
I think Parmigiani Fleurier was savvy to leave the dial genuinely severe; the solitary brightening prospers other than the two-followed running seconds subregister (which figures out how to come across more instrumental than beautifying, regardless) are the pyramidal hour files, which, however they add a little shimmer, are still lovely limited. The case, moreover, is wonderfully made and has the smooth, biomorphic lines normal for the Tonda line, yet this is in general a lot of a business in the front, party in the back sort of watch, which given the mind blowing development style truly seems like the correct approach. What’s more, one exquisite extra covertness extravagance contact is the dial material; it’s grand feu enamel – you can get it in blue or white and keeping in mind that white grand feu enamel has a conservative appeal that never goes downhill, the “illustrious blue” (Parmigiani’s expression for the detailing utilized for this watch) is, for this situation I figure, the best approach to go.
The Tonda case is smoothed out and understated.
On the wrist, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Chronor Anniversaire with blue dial makes an exquisite yet striking impression.
The watch will be a restricted version of 25 pieces, estimated at $135,000. In the United States it is accessible at Le Studio Parmigiani Fleurier in the Miami Design District, just as through all authority Parmigiani Fleurier retailers. This is clearly a best in class showpiece both as far as finish and as far as cost yet I think it’d be extraordinary to see some rendition of this development in more traditional watchmaking materials; in an alternate emphasis at a more agreeable value, it could truly be an anchor item for the Tonda assortment. Meanwhile, it’s an incredible method to praise turning 20.
The Tonda Chronor Anniversaire: case, 42.10mm x 14.6mm; white gold, water obstruction 30 meters. Development, type PF361, 18k rose gold, hand twisted, with 65-hour power save; enormous date, segment wheel vertical grip rattrapante chronograph with penetrated, angled scaffolds and mainplate; running at 36,000 vph (and thus, a 1/10 second chronograph). Accessible with a white or blue dial grand feu enamel dial. Lash by Hermès in dark or “Etruscan.”