Historical Perspectives: A Detailed Investigation Of The Mysterious Lip 'Paul Newman' Chronograph
I turned out to be emphatically enchanted with this blue Lip chronograph in 2013. I had seen the watch previously (being a Frenchman guarantees you get presented to endless Lip and Yema watches), however was a wrist shot distributed on the Vintage Rolex Forum that made me experience passionate feelings for. Fixation is the situation with vintage watches, so I have been observing each and every blue Lip offered openly from that point forward – and I even purchased two models myself en route. In the wake of seeing more than 20 models notwithstanding my own, I feel genuinely certain about saying that of the two puzzling varieties of this blue dial Lip chronograph, all things considered, just one is the genuine deal.
There is no motivation to question the validness of the Lip “Paul Newman,” when all is said in done. The moniker comes from the plan of the sub-registers, which are obviously likewise found in the Rolex Daytona worn by the well known entertainer . The dials for the two watches were made by Singer. Lip and Rolex are by all account not the only brands to show the trademark square markers in the chronograph counters, which can likewise found on vintage Vulcain , Nivada , and Wakmann chronos, to give some examples. Lip offered two bright dials in that arrangement: the blue rendition being talked about here, and a orange one too. These watches date to the last part of the 1960s and mid 1970s, when Lip (and most different producers) truly battled – to where Lip in the end failed in 1977.
One watch, however two plans. You can see clear contrasts on all fours shape.
The most contentious point about this blue Lip chronograph has to do with the two varieties that can frequently be found, and whether one is the valid, right watch. There’s no 100% firm response to this inquiry, yet I’ve done some examining, settled on some judgment decisions, and compared all the watches I could, to attempt to draw us nearer to reality. How about we compare the benefits of each and choose for ourselves.
The contrasts between the two watches are inconspicuous, yet they matter – a great deal. It isn’t as much about worth fundamentally, all things considered about which of the two combinations of cases and hand sets are right – one with orange tips and the other completely dark. There are two potential clarifications. To begin with, the two watches are right and were created in a type of grouping (and you can wager gatherers would begin referencing Mark 1 and Mark 2 if this somehow happened to be the situation). Second, one is right and the other isn’t. I end up claiming one of each, and I solidly accept that just one of my watches was brought into the world in the mid 1970s, and moreover that the different was assembled much later.
The orange “Paul Newman” Lip causes us to feel sure about the presence of the blue rendition. (Photograph: Courtesy Chronomania).
My case would be open and closed in the event that I had figured out how to locate the first documentation, however I have not. Trust me, it’s not for absence of endeavoring. I can’t discover any proof of a Lip index from that time – nor some other authority documentation showing the watch from the time frame. The second-best source is consistently reference books. Unexpectedly, I discovered this watch in two separate books, each introducing an alternate setup of the chronograph – so I was starting over from the beginning. For total honesty, Lip: Des Heures A Conter and Watch: History of the Modern Wristwatch were both composed by two watch devotees who had no past connections to Lip, and who themselves sourced the watches that they highlighted. It’s in this way obvious that they discovered the two diverse known executions, with each accepting they’d found the right watch.
Yet, as I would like to think, the image underneath begins us on the way towards the genuine answer. What is important here isn’t the watch as such, yet the tie with its blue example. This is without a doubt a similar kind of lash that could be found on the aforementioned orange Lip Paul Newman , which shows firmly that it was the first tie (I mean, on the off chance that you are doing an orange dial, you are certainly not short of putting a similar tone on the tie). It gets intriguing when you additionally find that this tie can be found on a few blue chronographs with the orange accents , but never on the all-dark versions.
The book “Watch, History of the Modern Wristwatch” shows a portion of the chronographs that Lip delivered, some with splendid colors.
Stylistically, the all-dark adaptation shows up even less persuading when compared to the intense looks of the orange-conditioned ones, however I comprehend that is not a strong contention all alone. In spite of the fact that coming from a brand which utilized pink hands and files (such were the feel of the time) the orange bodes well than does the black.
I purchased the orange-tipped watch straightforwardly from a past Lip retailer (he even gave me the blue paper sack that was conveyed at that point) while the all-dark watch came from the vendor who purchased all the leftover Lip stock when the company went under. The merchant of the second was extremely straightforward in revealing that the watch was worked from spare parts, which clarifies the models he unpredictably offers on Ebay for around $600. The provenance of my two watches may draw us nearer to reality, yet there’s as yet burrowing to be done.
vs. orange-tipped handset.
Looking at the cases will make us one stride further. In spite of the fact that they are diversely formed, both are steel-plated, as demonstrated by their individual casebacks (“Stainless Steel Back” consistently infers that the remainder of the case isn’t made out of tempered steel, yet is rather chrome plating over base metal). One ought not fail to remember that these chronographs were surely spending things, made inexpensively to arrive at a low value point and ideally save Lip from bankruptcy. Not all Lip chronographs were plated – a long way from it; you can discover a few models in full gold, now and then even marked Lip Genève to stress the renowned Swiss assembling. I have solid doubts that they were then made by Breitling, since Breitling and Lip had a conveyance bargain in France at that point and the Lip chronos look fundamentally the same as the Breitling Top Time – however that is a story for another day.
The all-dark case (right) is more precise, it is fundamentally the same as the Top Time line that Lip offered under its own branding.
While the states of the actual cases don’t uncover a lot, their general condition does. You will quite often see plating misfortune on orange-tipped chronographs, while practically all-dark ones are flawless, sharp, and steady. On the off chance that the two setups were sold close by each other (or even a couple of years separated) this confound in conservation would be inconceivable, as it would infer that all-dark watches were just offered to individuals who might promise to not wear them so the leftover models would in any case look immaculate 40 years after the fact. Better believe it, that doesn’t make any sense.
The caseback of the all-dark version.
More complete etchings can be found on the orange-tipped configuration.
The caseback of the orange-tipped further backings the full realness of this adaptation, since it bears a reference number, while the all-dark one is significantly more nonexclusive looking. These casebacks are not extraordinary to my two watches, but rather are illustrative of what one regularly finds on every one of these two configurations.
I likewise still can’t move beyond the way that the perusing of the chronograph truly bodes well with the orange-tipped hands, while the dark hands kind of feel unfamiliar in those sub-registers. One could envision those dark hands were expected for another chronograph with an alternate dial, while the orange-tipped ones appear to be foreordained from birth to be with the blue subject of the dial and primary handset.
The orange tip of the running second hand can’t be found on all versions.
The splendid orange moment chronograph hand is very legible.
While there is little uncertainty in my psyche that the right handset should bear some sort of orange contacts for the chronograph capacities, it is entirely conceivable that two kinds of running seconds hands (the hand found on the left sub-register) were utilized all through the creation: one with the hued tip as demonstrated above, and one completely painted dark as seen in these three models . Curiously, it appears to be that for this situation of this last design, the six-digit chronic number is engraved on the caseback, rather than the reference number found on my model. From the known models, we can list the accompanying serials: 691,547 ; 691,907 ; 892,362 ; 892,624 ; while one remaining parts obscured. It’s important that some all-dark renditions can likewise be found with a comparative sort of six-digit chronic number; for example, we found 893,036 , although it sports an totally off base chronograph hand.
Many different models can be found with a dark hand for the running seconds.
The orange handset is amazingly readable, especially by plan one must assume.
By now, I trust you share my view that the orange-tipped Lip Paul Newman is the genuine unique, while the all-dark is a later and flawed version (likely the consequence of a combination of administration parts and unused components). Furthermore, it goes much past the restorative consistency of the orange handset. As far as I might be concerned, the genuine winning focuses are summarized in the way that no all-dark design has at any point been found on a unique lash, and that those were in dubiously acceptable condition. This might be at any rate halfway clarified by the numerous models set up over the previous years by the current proprietor of Lip extra stock, despite the fact that there is no knowing without a doubt whether he is the sole wellspring of the all-dark Lip “Paul Newman.”
The crown is presumably a new part, yet we will consider this detail the appeal of vintage watches.
Finally, regardless of whether I presently trust one to be mistaken, I am as yet happy I purchased those two watches. At that point, I ensured I had at any rate one, if not two, of the best plans from Lip. As I anticipated from the beginning, there is no outright evidence for the sole rightness of the crazier orange arrangement – just a reasonable number of astounding pieces of information pointing immovably in that direction.
My present doubt (might I venture to say conviction?) that one of them isn’t 100% right doesn’t leave me unpleasant in any capacity; unexpectedly, I am genuinely glad to have nearly addressed this riddle following a four-year venture. Or on the other hand so I think – I may very well wind up at long last finding that unique Lip inventory and acknowledging I was off from the beginning. While I can wager against that situation all I need, should it come to pass it would be a decent exercise by and by, that conviction and vintage observes seldom go hand-in-hand.
The two chronographs – one likely the first, the other a later addition.