In-Depth: A Look At The Doxa SUB 200 T-Graph Searambler
On the wrist, the T-Graph is all that I need in a vintage jump watch.
Perhaps fittingly, I learned of this specific watch while on a plunge trip in the Caribbean. On a surface span between plunges, an email showed up from a vintage watch seller in Chicago who knows my inclination for vintage submerged watches. I think I committed to paying it before peeling off my wetsuit; vintage Doxas in great condition are uncommon, yet a vintage T-Graph is a horological Loch Ness beast. This was anything but an opportunity to be missed. Despite the fact that I was plunging with another watch on my wrist, everything I could consider was that old Doxa hanging tight for me back home.
The term “instrument watch” is abused and everybody’s meaning of that term is extraordinary. One individual’s instrument watch may be a Richard Mille RM 028, while another’s is a G-Shock Frogman. In any case, while current apparatus watches are bound to be a Garmin Fenix, or even an Apple Watch , in the last part of the 1960s the mechanical jump observe still administered the day and the ruler of the pile was apparently Doxa. Rolex, Omega, and even Seiko had more brand acknowledgment, however then Doxa went out and constructed the most no nonsense plunging watch imagined to date. Everything, from the sawtooth bezel engraved with no-decompression limits, to the curiously large moment hand, to the spring-stacked tightening fasten, was planned not for intriguing associates at the workplace, yet for use as a submerged instrument. This was all gratitude to a team drove by Doxa’s Urs Eschle and Cousteau group jumper Claude Wesly. In those days, these watches were sold in jump shops, and on the off chance that you got one, chances are, you intended to dive deep with it.
Doxa had a great run for about 10 years in the wake of presenting its SUB 300 of every 1967. No not as much as Jacques-Yves Cousteau himself wore a Doxa on a few undertakings and his stuff company, U.S. Jumpers Co., turned into the brand’s sole shipper in the United States. SEALAB jumpers wore them, French Marine Nationale frogmen wore them, even famous (if anecdotal) activity legend Dirk Pitt wore Doxa. A large portion of these watches were the standard SUB 300T in one of its dial varieties – orange Professional, dark Sharkhunter, silver Searambler, or the uncommon yellow Divingstar. However, in 1969, Doxa added a two-register chronograph to its contributions. This is the T-Graph.
Almost everything about the T-Graph is quirky, from the case shape to the bezel to the sub-dials.
In late 1968, Doxa turned out to be essential for the Synchron Group, an assortment of watch marks that united to prepare for the undeniably troublesome commercial center. Synchron was comprised of Eberhard, Doxa, Borel, Cyma, and a couple of others. While the standard Doxas utilized off-the-rack time-and-date ETA developments, for the T-Graph, a chronograph type was required, and for that Doxa went to its stablemate Eberhard. The Eberhard 310-82 is considered by numerous individuals to be the remainder of the generally hardly any hand-wound chronograph developments with a date complication before the appearance of oneself winding chrono. Doxa rebranded it as the type 287, however this is basically a similar all around respected section wheel chronograph development that was in the vaunted Eberhard Contograf.
This is a plunge watch that was really intended to be utilized – not flaunted around the office.
While the T-Graph bears outward similitudes to other Doxas of the time, it has critical contrasts too. The case is enormous, checking in at near 45mm across and practically 16mm tall. The crown, dissimilar to that of other Doxas, isn’t secured, which leaves it defenseless against thumps yet additionally making it exceptionally simple to hold and wind. The push-pieces are the conventional mushroom-shape uncloggers when seen from under, yet are covered by the situation to be completely covered up. The enormous steel bezel stands high no longer associated with this issue, still the best quality level for hold taking everything into account, and tightens counterclockwise just as any cutting edge jump watch. Doxa evaluated the T-Graph for 200 meters (henceforth the “SUB 200” moniker), good for any time, yet astounding given its absence of screw-down crown or pushers.
I’m a self-admitted Doxa fanboy, having possessed a few current and vintage models throughout the long term, however the T-Graph has since quite a while ago stayed the best to me. Most importantly, it’s uncommon. As indicated by the great reference book “Doxa SUB 40 Years: 1967-2007” by Dr. Peter McClean Millar, just an expected 300 of each dial tone were made (dark, orange, and silver) in its generally short run. There was even a T-Graph fitted with a helium discharge valve recorded in Doxa’s list, yet to date none have surfaced. Vintage T-Graphs additionally don’t come available to be purchased frequently (the one of every a new “Bring A Loupe” was sold before we even distributed the section). This could be a direct result of what a small number of were made, that most were likely utilized as expected (for timing jumps), or both. Plunging is famously hard on hardware, particularly sensitive mechanical articles worn on the arm, so I presume just a little part of those sold made due to the 21st century.
It’s felt that lone 300 T-Graphs were made with every one of the three dial tones – silver, similar to you see here, dark, and orange.
Doxas, vintage and current, will in general be polarizing. Like such countless reason constructed watches, including the Omega Ploprof and the Seiko “Fish Can” jumpers, you love them or level out don’t get the allure. The T-Graph is no special case, with its off-kilter case extents, noticeable bezel, and disproportionate handset. So they will in general have somewhat of a faction following while at the same time remaining to a great extent overlooked by the lion’s share. The individuals who do grab up vintage T-Graphs only sometimes need to leave behind them. An ideal model is watch seller and (some say over the top) Doxa authority, James Lamdin, of Analog/Shift, who possesses… a couple. “Wearing a T-Graph is somewhat of an occasion. Enormous, tall, and substantial, its orange accents yell from the wrist,” Lamdin says, “It’s truly not normal for some other Doxa diver.”
The Doxa SUB 200 T-Graph is an affection it-or-scorn it sort of watch. You realize which side I’m on.
“Gene Cernan had one, so that ought to likely give you some thought of the sort of individuals purchasing this watch during the 1960s,” Lamdin adds. Apollo space explorer and “keep going man on the Moon” Eugene Cernan was maybe the most acclaimed proprietor of a Doxa T-Graph and keeping in mind that it’s far fetched that he wore his on his Apollo 17 mission, his image of derring-do and ’60s roughness says more regarding Doxa than any anecdotal activity legend will. And keeping in mind that I wouldn’t dare compare myself to Gene Cernan, I like realizing that we share common insight regarding peculiar watches.
The watch is clearly huge, yet wears incredible on a Tropic lash (or various different ties, as well).
It’s difficult to choose which form of the T-Graph is the best. Orange is notable, and dark has a genuine military vibe, however there is something in particular about silver-dialed ’60s chronographs that simply works. Set against this sunburst dial, the monstrous orange hand and peculiar sub-dial markings have a practically fun loving innovativeness to them. Furthermore, the one opened up at the correct time for me, and I wasn’t going to sit tight for another, so the silver Searambler is my choice.
The unique dabs of rice wristband has a creative extension instrument incorporated into the clasp.
Mine came mounted on a unique dabs of rice wristband that, as I would see it, is one of the more overlooked jump watch developments of the class’ brilliant age. A long time before Tudor presented its spring-stacked Pelagos fasten, Doxa had its own rendition. Snap shut the crease over deployant and the catch clicks into one of five miniature change positions to accommodate an assortment of wrist widths. At one or the flip side of the fasten is a gliding spring-stacked segment that was intended to grow for wear over a wetsuit sleeve. With an expansion in water pressure, the sleeve would recoil and the wristband takes up the leeway. It was an astute development, better than static catch augmentations and miniature change openings on different watches of the time. Given the extraordinariness and relative complexity of the stock arm band, I really don’t wear it much, which is fine in light of the fact that the T-Graph takes a gander at home on a NATO lash, vintage Tropic elastic, or even calfskin, as so numerous vintage jumpers do.
There’s a great deal that is odd about the T-Graph, however that is by and large why I like it so much.
I love watches with visual interest – colors, shapes, odd plan components – and the Doxa T-Graph keeps me continually entertained. Each time I wear it, I become mixed up in various subtleties, for example, the range seconds hand with its larger than usual bolt, or the square running seconds hand, the exchanging shading blocks on the 30-minute counter (which used to be lumed!) or the little adjusted textual style utilized on the helter-skelter dial printing. Likewise, as an ardent jumper, I love the engraved no-decompression scale on the bezel, the most immediate indicate what this watch was made for.
The Doxa SUB 200 T-Graph resembles a friendly request’s ring, an inconspicuous gesture not seen frequently, nor perceived by everybody, except appreciated strongly by a couple. It’s an image of a time when jump watches got wet and were planned thusly, however some more than others. All things considered, despite the fact that I’ve been known to jump with an appropriately adjusted vintage watch, even reestablished to full spec, my T-Graph will experience an all around procured dry retirement.
Photos: Gishani Ratnayake