Introducing: First Pre-SIHH News From Vacheron Constantin – The Traditionelle Minute Repeater Tourbillon And The Patrimony Moon Phase And Retrograde Date
The Patrimony Moon Phase And Retrograde Date
This isn’t the first run through a retrograde date complication and a moonphase have been combined in one watch by Vacheron Constantin, yet it is the cleanest and most straightforward we’ve seen. Simply the moonphase show and date are appeared alongside the time (remarkably, there’s no center or sub-seconds show). The retrograde date watch from Vacheron that is probably generally familiar to fans is the Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date , which has a retrograde showcase for both the date and the day of the week.
This isn’t the first watch from Vacheron to feature these complications, however it is the cleanest.
The new watch is a similar diameter as the Patrimony Retrograde Date, at 42.5mm, however it is somewhat thinner, Moon Phase And Retrograde Date coming in at 9.7mm and the earlier Retrograde Date coming in at 10.02mm. The 32 one-hundredths of a millimeter is a reasonably unimportant difference, except if you have a Princess-And-The-Pea sensitivity to such things, yet a few group certainly do (have you met watch collectors?). The moonphase is accurate to one day’s deviation every 122 years, which is becoming something of a standard among moonphase shows in haute horlogerie watches.
Inside is caliber 2460 R31L, which, in view of measurements and power reserve, appears to be a variation on the caliber 2460 R31R7 found in the Patrimony Retrograde Date. That is no large surprise. The two movements have similar measurements – 27.2mm x 5.40mm – and both offer a power reserve of 40 hours, so wherever that minute difference in stature is coming from, it’s not the movement.
The front of the caliber 2460 R31L.
The strong gold rotor on the rear of the caliber 2460 R31L.
The watch will be offered in white and pink gold, with the moonphase show showing the lunar plate in either pink gold or white gold, corresponding to the case metal. A decent touch is that everything signs can be changed from the crown, including the moonphase show – in the first position, the movement can be hand-wound, in the second, clockwise rotation sets the date, and counter-clockwise sets the moonphase; in the third, you set the time.
Notice the pink gold moon coordinates the metal of the case.
The price for either the white gold or pink gold model will be $39,500 at launch.
The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Minute Repeater
As with the Patrimony Moon Phase And Retrograde Date, the Traditionelle Tourbillon Minute Repeater is a sparer interpretation of a current watch in the Traditionnelle assortment – for this situation, the Traditionnelle Caliber 2755 , which is a very spectacular moment repeater and tourbillon with perpetual calendar. The perpetual calendar works in the Caliber 2755 are cadrature (under-the-dial works), so the view from the back for the two watches is indistinguishable.
The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Minute Repeater is, on the off chance that you can believe it, really a pared-back watch for Vacheron Constantin.
Absent the cadrature, the movement has reduced somewhat in stature. Caliber 2755 QP (the perpetual calendar version) comes in at 7.90mm x 33.90mm, with a 58 hour power reserve (which isn’t awful at all for a particularly complicated watch), while caliber 2755 TMR in the Tourbillon Minute Repeater we have here is 6.10mm x 33.90mm. The instance of the Tourbillon Minute Repeater is likewise flatter than that of the perpetual calendar watch – it’s 44mm x 12.20mm, versus 44mm x 13.54mm for the perpetual.
A take a gander at the front of the caliber 2755 TMR flaunts the tourbillon.
Viewing the caliber 2755 TM from the back allows you to admire the repeater gongs and hammers.
The watch will be offered in two versions, a platinum model that will retail for $546,600 and a pink gold model that will retail for $490,900. This will be a store just model.
The platinum Traditionnelle Tourbillon Minute Repeater has a gray dial that makes the watch look strikingly modern.
Parenthetically, albeit the two versions of this watch have very attractive guilloché dials (another difference from the Caliber 2755, which has an unengraved dial), I can’t resist the urge to wonder whether sooner or later this watch probably won’t appear with a transparent dial. The perpetual calendar works in the Caliber 2755 look great, however opening up the dial would have had serious ramifications for neatness (however that is not that that is necessarily the hugest priority down the middle million dollar high complications), yet the repeater works in 2755 TMR are both lovely to take a gander at and loads of enjoyable to find in real life. This would make an open dial version substantially more powerful (and practical on the off chance that one cares for such things) than the perpetual calendar version of the watch.