Introducing: The (Amazingly Light) Ochs Und Junior Annual Calendar Light
Ochs und Junior is one of those companies that figures out how to make its presence actually appear to be necessary, in a world (mechanical horology) of sketchy necessity by and large. They are, on one level, an unassuming little outfit turning out a couple, subtle, plan forward, insider timepieces each year ; on another level, they’re perhaps the most truly rebellious extravagance watch manufacturers out there. On the off chance that there’s any company that is making a place for themselves in the extravagance world by demanding forsaking, or directly undermining, all that we for the most part expect extravagance represents, it’s Ochs und Junior. They’ve quite recently announced their latest watch: the annual calendar LIGHT.
The annual calendar LIGHT is a lighter form of the company’s current annual calendar. The annual calendar configuration is surprisingly basic and consists of just five additional parts. Ochs und Junior brings up with some pride that the annual calendar is by and large much more complex; the annual calendar module in Patek Philippe’s caliber CH 28-520 utilizations a sum of 154 components (out of 456 all out for the whole development). Clearly, Patek and Ochs und Junior are playing altogether different games, yet it’s still a significant surprising achievement. The date is shown, not numerically, however as a moving dab that requires one month to go around the dial. Toward the finish of a month with 30 days, the wheel carrying the piece of color bounces forward an additional increment, skirting the 31st. The extraordinary simplicity of the framework, just as the utilization of basic cog wheels, implies that the date can without much of a stretch be changed from the crown. Additionally, it’s likewise amazingly strong and dependable (great designing all in all being characterized by the least difficult answer for a given mechanical problem).
Dial, annual calendar date plate, day of the week and month circles, hands.
An intriguing element of the annual calendar of Ochs und Junior is that the indications are actually important for the mechanism (the orange strips appeared above) which implies that the stuff framework is additionally the indicator framework – part of the explanation that it’s conceivable to so drastically reduce the parts count.
In titanium, the Ochs und Junior annual calendar is really darned light in any case: 70.83 grams in a 42 mm case, and at 39 mm, we’re down to 61.99 grams. The LIGHT form is slightly more than 40% lighter, in the two sizes. Likewise with Richard Mille’s super light watches, there’s a fascinating thing about seeing the typical instinct that extravagance ought to be addressed by something significant, get flipped completely around. The basic technique for reducing weight in the LIGHT is one natural to any individual who has, for instance, seen how gets dealt with a racing bicycle; you simply dispose of however much unnecessary metal as could reasonably be expected. For the LIGHT, that was finished by processing out all the excess titanium inside the case, without reducing structural integrity.
Left, typical titanium annual calendar case; right, LIGHT case.
Every a piece of the watch was scrutinized to see where weight could be saved, including the lash and buckle. The buckle for the LIGHT form is carbon fiber, and it weighs just .086 grams; the kevlar and Velcro lash comes in at 5.07 grams.
For numerous parts that, in the first annual calendar, are made of metal, the LIGHT uses an aluminum, magnesium, silicon amalgam (Al Mg Si 1). Thickness is much lower than metal (2.7g/cm3 versus 8.7g/cm3) and the material is not difficult to machine precisely. This is critical as a significant number of the components for which Al Mg Si 1 is utilized are functional (including the dial, which is important for the intending framework for the calendar) so having the option to precision machine it is essential.
Rear perspective on the annual calendar LIGHT dial, and date disk.
This will be a beautiful exclusive watch; Ochs und Junior will make maybe 10 every year, and as is typically the case, the company can offer lower pricing than you may expect for such a low volume, exceptionally customizable complicated watch. This is part of the way because of its utilization of components that can be machined by a little contractor, as opposed to sourced from the typical providers – numerous parts are made in the machine shop of previous Formula 1 machinist Peter Cantieni.
What can you say about the esthetics of a watch that is intentionally intended to sabotage esthetics? Of course, from a certain perspective Ochs und Junior addresses the surrender of esthetics fundamentally, yet in another sense, that in itself becomes the selection of an alternate esthetic. Indeed, it’s an esthetic partially grounded in the recognizable – the Modernist celebration of the intrinsic properties of materials. On another level, however, Ochs und Junior, taken in the context of most other extravagance watchmaking, is a wry, ironic commentary on the unquestioning acceptance of a certain plan language, that when acquiesced to without thought, prompts a pernicious sort of both sterile and over the top expensive watchmaking.
Now, it’s implied that such a thing, taken excessively far, can be its own sort of dishonesty – such a Swiss variant of trendy person watchmaking. At this moment however, I think Ochs und Junior makes it work. Without the mechanical creativity behind it, the Ochs und Junior LIGHT may appear to be simply one more piece of in vogue cosmetics, however the degree of tender loving care in the construction, choice of materials, and complication configuration makes it a continuing breath of gravely required new air.
The Ochs und Junior LIGHT is accessible in either 39 mm or 42 mm forms. Fare price excluding VAT, CHF 9,200. For customization alternatives or to arrange (one of each size is currently accessible) contact Ochs und Junior co-founder Beat Weinmann . For more data on the Ochs und Junior LIGHT, click here.