Introducing: The Chopard L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono

The L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono has as its base a development that is only two years of age: the Chopard L.U.C. 03.07-L, which was introduced in the spring of 2014 in Chopard’s 1963 Chronograph. This is a beautiful high evaluation development, as you’d expect from the L.U.C. line – a contemporary vertical clutch, column-wheel, hand-wound flyback chronograph development, 5.62 mm x 28.8 mm, with a variable inactivity balance (Chopard’s own plan) with a 60-hour power hold, running in 42 jewels, adjusted to five positions. There’s a moonphase display accurate to one day’s blunder like clockwork. The development carries the Geneva Hallmark and it’s COSC certified as a chronometer, so it essentially ticks all the enthusiast boxes.

The expansion of Chopard’s perpetual calendar works (which are, as is almost always the case, cadrature, or under-the-dial-works, and in this way not visible) has changed the components of the development slightly. Perpetual calendar chronograph development L.U.C. 03.10-L is 33 mm x 8.32 mm – for comparison, Patek Philippe’s hand-wound, non-flyback, perpetual calendar chronograph development, CH 29-535 PS Q, is 32 mm x 7 mm with a 55-hour minimum guaranteed power save, as found in the reference 5270.

The increase in development size has implied a slight increase in the size of the Chopard Perpetual Chrono over the 1963 Chronograph – the latter clocks in at 42 mm x 11.5 mm, while the new Perpetual Chrono is 45 mm x 15.06 mm. Once more, just for comparison, the Patek 5270 is 41 mm in measurement; A. Lange & Söhne’s Datograph Perpetual, maybe a closer match to the Chopard Perpetual Chrono (both are large date, perpetual calendar, flyback, hand-wound chronographs), is  41 mm x 13.5 mm. What the Chopard brings to the table, notwithstanding what it offers technically, is an alternate, more outgoing plan language than either Patek or Lange, and a beautiful fascinating price point. The L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono at launch is priced at $85,000, which is significantly less than any of its comparable competition.

Chopard caliber L.U.C. 03.10-L is, like its chrono-only predecessor, a COSC-certified chronometer (it is intriguing to perceive the number of chronometer-certified perpetual calendar watches are in existence or have at any point been made – there can’t be many). It also carries the recently updated Geneva Hallmark; the latter was formerly controlled by the Geneva School of Watchmaking but since 2012, it’s been under the auspices of Timelab, and includes functional, decorative, and casing up requirements. It’s much more comprehensive with respect to the whole watch than used to be, and you can find out about the new(ish) Geneva Hallmark requirements on their somewhat surprisingly slick site .

One other point worth referencing: Chopard sources its gold with the help of Fairmined. A seldom-discussed elephant in the room in watches and jewelry is the enormous environmental impact, and social impact, of gold mining, and Fairmined works with its accomplices to ensure its gold comes from ethically responsible sources; you can peruse more about their work here.

As we said at the highest point of the story, the launch of their absolute first perpetual calendar chronograph is a quite serious deal for Chopard, and we’re looking forward to seeing the watch in-the-metal one week from now in Basel. The perpetual calendar chronograph, especially executed in house, and with high evaluation finish, isn’t just a complication; it’s a mission statement and personality. At the present time, just based on the initial announcement this looks like potentially an intriguing alternative to a portion of the usual suspects in the battle for the consideration of clients inspired by a top-level perpetual calendar chronograph.

The Chopard Perpetual Chrono, reference 161973-1001: Fairmined 18k white gold case, 45 mm x 15.06 mm, 30 m water safe. Development, hand-wound caliber L.U.C. 03.10-L, perpetual calendar, flyback chronograph, vertical clutch and column wheel controlled, variable dormancy balance, COSC certified chronometer, Geneva Hallmark. High accuracy moon-stage display with one day’s deviation each 122 years. Displays: hours, minutes, small seconds, large date, moonphase, center chronograph seconds, 12 hour and 30 minute counters; day of the week and leap year too. Price, $95,630​. Visit online at chopard.com .