Patek Philippe 5170P-001 In Platinum With Diamonds Watch Hands-On

Patek Philippe 5170P-001 In Platinum With Diamonds Watch Hands-On

Why, I mean oh why do top of the line extravagance watches have intelligent precious stones? That is an inquiry we may never know the complete response to, and the Patek Philippe 5170P-001 positively doesn’t help fix the issue; however in any case it’s an incredible watch, so let us give it a nearer look.

All pictures by David Bredan

As I was auditing my pictures of this generally very stunning looking fella, I could feel outrage and disappointment sneaking up on me. It resembled seeing the Mona Lisa re-sketched with a broad cleavage, or Munch’s The Scream transformed into an emoticon. What I could see was something meticulously thought out and executed to the best detail, and afterward demolished just to intrigue the continually diverted current onlooker.


My just hypothesis for the presence of intelligent gems, similar to the one on the Patek Philippe 5170P-001, is that it’s chosen since it looks more noteworthy and costly to the undeveloped eye – and the broad blast the watch business experienced throughout the most recent twenty years sure brought along masses of undeveloped clients who, commonly, ran to the notable eminence brands. That is to say, picture the accompanying scenario.

A customer, as the business mysteriously prefers to call him, strolls into a shop, requesting “something garish – yet not tasteless… I gained from last time.” Seating and a glass of bubbly is offered and minutes after the fact he has the boutique’s staff hand one of these delights over with their white gloved hands – for their modest human skin isn’t permitted to touch such valuable materials like nearly unadulterated platinum, or sapphire. As the spot lamps radiate downward on this setting like stars in the sky, the watch mirrors light back at the to-be client, blinding his eyes, shielding them from zeroing in on the little sticker price concealed conveniently within the strap.

His eyes, tired from seeing the plebs approach their lives as he moves past them in his colored Maybach, do their closest to perfect to look behind the bended and gladly non-AR-covered gem, frantically chasing for the gala they could detect is anticipating. Their endeavors yield incredible prizes: nine monstrous, loaf cut diamonds shimmer back at them – “in the region of a fifth of a carat,” his prepared nouveau riche vision makes him murmur and the staff nearly claps in appreciation. They are approximately 0.23ct.


As a survey point is discovered where the whole roof and the remainder of the store isn’t reflected back at the client, a dial in an energetic, yet honorable shade of blue begins to show itself, set land by an unobtrusive sunburst finish. No profound notches or any of that garbage, simply the lightest touch on a superficial level. Minutes after the fact, it becomes apparent, the 5170P isn’t about the dial tone, yet about those magnificent roll diamonds – which, to be reasonable, set up a noteworthy battle against the reflections as they also dissipate light in 1,000,000 ways.

Diamond markers work as a disruptive force among watch fans. Those with a more weak trust in their taste (or something different, perhaps?) effectively look for the chance to overcompensate and, in that capacity, consider even the proposal of precious stone markers to be an individual assault. They wish to voice their super traditionalist taste at whatever point feasible for it is their trusty safe-place where, cosied facing the delicate dividers of watch taste traditionalism, they are liberated from making a wrong call.

Many all the more even shun diamonds on a generally traditionalist inviting Patek Philippe chronograph like the 5170 – a far young lady hostile plan move, I’d say, than the manufacture’s ongoing invasion into pilot watches. On a positive note, others do like jewel hour markers and (disgrace on me?) I have a place with this bunch of horological pariahs. In the event that we are straightforward, any watch that costs more than, say, $1,000 is somehow an unreasonable, extravagant characteristic – and in light of that (and particularly when you’re spending great into five figures), precious stone hour markers sound more normal than ever.

The 39.4mm-wide platinum case may simply be 10.9mm thick – the Patek Philippe 5170P gets extents right – however it actually has significant haul to it. As the “P” in the reference number and the load over the wrist show, this 5170 is made in the heaviest of valuable extravagance watch materials. This, in a Patek Philippe, further involves a little jewel set in the middle of the lower hauls of the watch, simply an update that you don’t request anything yet the best – as well as generally costly – the world needs to offer.

Speaking of the best, the hand-wound Patek Philippe Caliber CH 29-535 PS is in reality among the best quintessential extravagance chronograph movements, ruling out varying tastes or contentions. The technically sub-par level clutch makes for a tastefully predominant caseback – those two continually connected wheels on the left hand side of the movement on the image above turn somewhat to work with the chronograph seconds’ focus wheel when the chronograph is initiated.

The section wheel is covered up under a profoundly cleaned cap as seen on the picture straightforwardly above. It is an offbeat cap that takes into account the adjusting of the previously mentioned clutch – as should be obvious, there is a fairly delightfully bended arm that interfaces the two cross section wheels with the segment wheel itself. At the point when the chronograph’s start pusher is locked in, the segment wheel under the cap turns, subsequently dropping this arm in the middle of the segment wheel’s segments, accordingly moving the second of the two driving wheels somewhat so it starts to work with the wheel in the middle. The distance went by this arm requires careful calibrating, something this cap is to help with – however I’d actually really like to see a well-working chronograph with an uncovered section wheel. I feel that’s enough segment wheel talk for the day.


The excellence of a hand-wound chronograph is that you will have all the gorgeous sight. There isn’t a fiddly rotor consistently in the manner. Force hold of the CH 29-535 PS is in any event 65 hours, permitting the Gyromax equilibrium and Breguet-style hairspring to do their 4Hz artful dance for above and beyond two days. 65 hours is sufficient to make the 5170P last from Friday night till Monday morning – an accomplishment each top of the line watch more extensive than 36mm ought to provide.

All the usefulness aside, the 29-535 is so lovely, I’d venture to such an extreme as to say it’s an absolute necessity have in each collector’s vocation. Not really a lifetime manager, but rather a benchmark for each cutting edge top of the line chronograph. None ought to be a duplicate of this, don’t misunderstand me, however any changes done to this format and these extents ought to be upheld by strong reasons – improved usefulness, better, and so on Not many movements waste time with extents, not to mention extents against case size, yet here things are perfect. The huge equilibrium wheel seen in Patek chronographs of old positively add a more customary energy, however in the event that you need current recurrence and equilibrium wheel plan, you need to acknowledge a more modest equilibrium as a sensible compromise.

Returning to the dial side only for one more genuine passing, the Patek Philippe 5170P is an intriguing monster. The watch market as it is endures no lack of platinum-clad, jewel bold watches – however something is disclosing to me nobody in the radical hoppie music industry will be seen shaking the 5170P in any of their recordings at any point in the near future. No, the 5170P is more similar to a well off grandpa with jewel sleeve fasteners: strange, however vis-à-vis you’ll most likely need to keep your assessment to yourself.


The Patek Philippe 5170P is intriguing in light of the fact that I can envision it to be path over the top for a few, and fairly lifeless according to numerous others. On an individual note, after everything is said and done, I really think it is just right. It is, on the grounds that it takes that secrecy abundance single carry jewel and full platinum hogwash to another level by gladly demonstrating a portion of the lion’s teeth on the front. That is to say, without the diamonds and in humble rose gold, this as of now is a ~$75k watch, so why not let it live a little?

Last thing worth considering is the way there can be a sure charm to splendidly executed watches from large brands that in any case flaunt a little – and the 5170P is near being a strong model at that. Notwithstanding, when we talk about splendor in execution, intelligent precious stones truly shouldn’t be essential for the conversation. Neatness ought not be forfeited under any circumstances, and that’s precisely why the roll markers function admirably: they capacity to plan while likewise being extremely superfluous and rich. The equivalent can’t be said about the destroyed gem. I get it probably works in the store, however it’s a mysterious and complete flop wherever else. It’s like shaking this watch with an ideal tux – and afterward strolling wherever with a stain on your lapel.

In synopsis, I discover the 5170P to be one of the really intriguing late curiosities from the brand, significant on the grounds that it packs a quintessential Patek Philippe chronograph type with an incredible dial and, gratitude to its diamonds, “a touch of class” – as Basil Fawlty would call it. Cost for the Patek Philippe 5170P chronograph in platinum is 85,000 CHF. patek.com