The Value Proposition: The Longines Heritage Diver Chronograph
We as of late had the opportunity to go through a few days with one that we truly like a ton: the Heritage Dive Chronograph. This is a weighty chunk of sentimentality, 1960s style; like its mate, the time-just Longines Heritage Diver (we wrote the two watches up back in May of 2014 when they launched at BaselWorld) it depends on a model Longines initially created in the pre-quartz period. It’s a very loyal proliferation, however not a submissive one (something worth being thankful for, we think). The first had three subdials, not two, and no date, but rather the case subtleties are to a great extent unchanged directly down to the size, and the overall shading scheme and dial configuration are pretty much indistinguishable from the first also, including the Paul Newman Daytona style subdial numerals.
Both the old and the new forms share an internal pivoting bezel, controlled from a crown situated at 10 o’clock. Presumably the greatest contrast between the two is the development; the first was driven by the Valjoux 72, the widely adored farm vehicle/go-to chronograph development from the post-war/pre-quartz period; the new rendition’s powered by what Longines calls the L651, which dependent on the diverse level of the chronograph pushers and crown, gives off an impression of being (perhaps) a particular chrono of some depiction. Regardless, it ain’t a Valjoux 72. One doesn’t actually hold that against the watch, however, as at this value point when all is said in done you don’t discover in-house developments regardless (an ready peruser has called attention to that a prominent special case is the Seiko Brightz arrangement of automatic chronographs. – ed.) Probably a more legitimate purpose of comparison would be another fan top choice, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph, which comes in at a greater cost point with a Sellita variant of the respected 7750 (that watch has its own specific incentive which we last got into here ).
New Guy is additionally a genuine, ISO 6425 compliant plunge watch, because of its turning bezel and 300 meters of water resistance.
As with a significant number of our #1 watches in the Value Proposition, there’s nobody thing that is truly represent the deciding moment about the Heritage Chrono Diver, it’s actually all the little subtleties that make the whole thing stand up and sing, and particularly for vintage watch and vintage plunge watch sweethearts, the maintenance of such things as the faceted external bezel, the protective cap style case, the red/white/dark shading scheme, and the fresh outspread brushing on the highest point of the case, all contrive to make the watch an unequivocally fulfilling presence on the wrist. Chronograph pusher feel doesn’t have the silk pajama perfection of a Lange or Patek however at that point, you’re not following through on Lange or Patek costs either – it’s still agreeably fresh, smooth and predictable. The Heritage Diver Chrono comes on a very well made elastic tie with collapsing fasten too, despite the fact that we have it on a Hodinkee tie right now – this is a watch that loans itself well to the little joys of periodic tie swapping.
Price for this one is not difficult to take: $3,750, all in. It’s unquestionably one of the more keen watching vintage-styled watches out there the present moment and its husky great looks go far towards demonstrating exactly how well the plan has matured – of its period, without a doubt, yet additionally with a suffering appeal to oblige the troublemaker attractiveness. Incredible style, no holding back on materials, strong development – all things considered, we think an exceptionally solid Value Proposition.
As shown, the Longines Heritage Dive Chronograph is $3750. 43mm case, 300m water obstruction, sapphire gem with hostile to intelligent covering. Development, Longines type L651, self-winding, 28,800 vph, 42 hour power save. Internal turning bezel, focus seconds hand with brief counter. Shot on a HODINKEE shell cordovan tie. Check out the whole Heritage Collection from Longines here.